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On the 15^th& 16^th of September, 2019, The Jewellery Cut Live will bring an exciting group of contemporary jewellery designers together during London Fashion Week for two days of shopping, insights and experiences.

 

This will be the third edition of The Jewellery Cut Live, which launched in 2018, founded by jewellery journalist Rachael Taylor and industry consultant Andrew Martyniuk. The showcase is open to all, and regularly attracts a mix of shoppers, store buyers, press and VIPs. Entry is free, but guests must register for a ticket here.

 

The designers at the show are a mix of international and British stars, established names and jewellers on the rise. The Jewellery Cut Live will be a showcase of exciting contemporary talent, and there will be a range of jewels available to buy over the two days and each designer will be on hand to meet visitors, discuss the designs and plan future commissions.

 

Find out more about each of the jewellery brands below. To keep up to date with the latest developments about The Jewellery Cut Live, including details of this season’s series of talks, sign up for our newsletter here.

 

AS by Akansha Sethi

After graduating from Goldsmiths, University of London, Akansha Sethi started her jewellery brand AS by Akansha Sethi. Seeking inspiration from the places she has travelled to and by studying art movements, it has shaped her understanding of design. This has meticulously been translated into her timeless pieces of jewellery. Her design philosophy is to gain rich experiences from places around the world and transform her memories into wearable art forms. The intricacy of each piece is also reflected in the multifaceted nature of the design. This allows each one to be fragmented or unified and to be worn in several ways, creating a convertible line of jewellery. It showcases a level of interactivity, allowing the user to modify the jewellery to suit their style. Sethi’s fascination with vibrant colours has been reflected in her jewellery, through the use of semi-precious and exotic stones, with pure gold and silver. Her jewellery is not just an adornment but a piece of art, which gives immense joy to the wearer. It complements and connects with the individuality of the person wearing it, enabling them to fall in love with the ethos of the design.

 

Alexandra Jacoumis

Alexandra Jacoumis’s jewellery seeks to unite the intricate designs and softness of textiles with the illuminating quality of gold and precious stones. Being of Greek origin, she was always inspired by the traditional and ancient crafts. Her journey in the world of jewellery making started when she acquired a degree in Jewellery Design & Practice at Sir John Cass Department of Art, Media & Design in London. Following her studies, she worked for ethical jeweller Pippa Small, during which time she was able to perfect her craft and find her own voice. True inspiration came after having spent several months travelling around India and Greece. Her proximity to rich textiles, textures, colours and stories moved her to create a unique collection. Jacoumis’s jewellery is made by embroidering detailed forms, which are then transformed into solid 18ct gold, retaining the exact intricate detail of the thread. Afterwards, precious and semi-precious stones, such as black diamonds and sapphires, are added. Delicate and tactile, these pieces are organic.  They are reminiscent of the past technique of hand-sewing and yet, they are modern and ready to wear.

 

Alice van Cal

When passion meets the joy of life, a designer like Alice van Cal is born. Not satisfied with simply creating ordinary pieces of jewellery, van Cal, who was born in Belgium but currently resides in London, found herself looking for something more. As she honed her skills working with leading luxury brands across London, she realised that one thing was missing from the world of jewellery: timeless pieces which you can adapt and wear in different ways but also that are relevant and meaningful to the person wearing them. Inspired by this idea, and the idea of spreading happiness with her craft, van Cal started sourcing the finest materials and applying her keen eye for detail and meticulous care to her own line of bespoke jewellery – jewellery that not only tells a unique story and inspires happiness, but promises to be timeless and elegant like no other.

 

Ama Dhami

Designer and founder Ama Dhami is of dual British and Indian heritage, a legacy that informs and inspires her work. Prior to the launch of her brand, Ama spent 10 years in banking, experiencing the technology-fuelled transformation of fashion businesses while sitting on the board of a British luxury multi-channel retailer as their business accelerated globally. Her learnings from this time fuelled her passion for creativity and design, along with studies at Central Saint Martins and the Gemological Institute of America, where Dhami qualified as a gemmologist. Ancient Indian jewellers would describe her attention to detail and love for precious gemstones as maharatnani, a quality that is felt in every creation, where heritage and craft are given centre stage. The beauty of opposites and a strong sense of duality are enduring themes in Ama Dhami’s designs. Precious stones sit elegantly against strong architectural lines, while a devoted attention to detail characterises every aspect, even those that may be hidden from view. This concept, the beauty of the unseen, is a sentiment at the heart of the brand, where the wearer is encouraged to consider their own wellbeing and innermost qualities.

 

Andrey Yarden

Siberian-born Andrey Yarden studied at the Moscow State Institute of Steel And Alloys before launching his own jewellery brand in 2013 and is now based in Shanghai. His high-quality, handcrafted jewels are inspired by human senses and designed to make a statement. Each piece looks simple but sophisticated combinations of textures, surfaces and techniques lend the jewels a depth and complexity. Since 2013, Andrey Yarden jewellery has been featured in magazines such as Vogue, L’Officiel and Grazia. Yarden has also designed unique jewels for celebrities including Katy Perry, Orlando Bloom, Natalia Vodianova and Renata Litvinova.

 

Baroque Rocks

Established in 2017, Baroque Rocks is a London-based jewellery company specialising in vintage and contemporary pieces. All of its jewels are hand-picked by founder Emma de Sybel, who has a discerning eye for arresting singularity. The name Baroque Rocks pays homage not just to the historical period of unabashed exuberance and grandeur that carried the same name, but also to the baroque pearl, whose irregular form defies common conception. The Rocks refers to the gemstones of course, yet the word carries so much more. Allusions to drama, music and exaggerated artistic style, all circling back to the non-conformity and individuality of every magnificent jewel in the Baroque Rocks collections.

 

Deborah Blyth 

Deborah Blyth’s signature design aesthetic celebrates the beauty of nature’s imperfections, exploring organic, tactile forms inspired by the natural world. Her passion for swimming and the restorative power of water began as a child living by the sea. Swimming has been her stress reliever; worries dissolve, spirits lift and this is where her best ideas are born, pushing through the chilly, silken water. Each piece of Deborah Blyth jewellery has a personality of its own, handcrafted in the brand’s London studio through the process of lost-wax casting. Many pieces are embellished with semi-precious stones for everyday luxury that can be worn from day to night. All Deborah Blyth jewels are available in sterling silver or 24ct gold vermeil, and often incorporate beautifully lustrous baroque pearls into many the designs, creating a wonderful mix of textures.

 

Ellis Mhairi Cameron

Ellis Mhairi Cameron is a fine jeweller, whose work is inspired by her Scottish heritage. Created by hand in her London studio, Cameron uses traditional techniques and hand skills to give her pieces their signature rugged aesthetic. Since launching her fine jewellery brand in 2017, she has secured stockists within the UK and Europe and has been featured in publications such as Vanity Fair and Retail Jeweller. Ellis has also been shortlisted for ‘Young Designer of the Year 2018’ award by Professional Jeweller. At the foundation of her brand is a belief in the beauty of imperfections, hand craftsmanship and a desire to provide clients with fine jewellery which can be handed down through the generations. The latest Ellis Mhairi Cameron collection, Origins, takes inspiration from the jewellery hoards that have been found across Scotland, containing 14ct gold pieces set with diamonds that transcend the centuries and encompass the heritage of many different lands.

 

Isla Gilham

 

Jessica Pass London

Jessica Pass grew up on an old farm in Derbyshire’s verdant Peak District, surrounded by beautiful scenery and an artist great-grandfather who taught her how to draw from an early age. She was also interested in how things worked, taking things apart to look at the mechanisms. The first piece of jewellery she fell in love with was an ornate, hinged armour ring, given to her by my grandmother, which moved perfectly with her finger, despite being heavy. The first piece Pass made herself was an ambitious cocktail ring with a spherical globe, the lid of which split into quarters, each hinged and opening to reveal gemstones hidden within. Many Jessica Pass London pieces still conceal a hidden detail waiting to be discovered and enjoyed.

 

Jewels of Queensland

Jewels of Queensland is a jewellery brand that is born in Australia and made in Britain. Its jewellery celebrates the vibrant natural gemstones from Queensland, one of Australia’s most diverse and beautiful regions. All the gemstones used in its collections are ethically mined and it uses Fairtrade gold to set them. Its mining partners have a determined respect for the natural environment and comply with Queensland Government mining laws and regulations relating to the extraction of material and reclamation of mined lands. Jewels of Queensland’s founders have a very personal relationship with the miners and a deep understanding of the world they live in. Their aim is to tell the world about the beautiful natural gemstones this part of the southern hemisphere produces and to work with the family-led and small-scale miners to ensure that the beauty of this landscape is preserved. Using only natural, untreated gemstones, Ian and Rod are full of stories of the unique characters who make a living in the outback, digging for buried treasure.

 

Julien Riad Sahyoun

Award-winning fine jewellery designer Julien Riad Sahyoun is a creative and emotive storyteller, and an artist of hidden depths. Each jewel, crafted in 18ct gold, tells a story. Whether communicating Julien’s passion to foster unity amongst people or reviving lost languages through secret Babylonian scripts, his are jewels that have meaning and call for a second look. Growing up in Morocco, Julien was immersed in a rich culture of inspiring artisans, architecture and craftsmanship that fuelled his creativity. As did his wanderlust spirit, which opened his eyes and mind as he travelled extensively. Matching his artistic abilities with a burgeoning interest in jewellery design and gemmology, Julien studied his craft at the renowned Gemological Institute of America in both New York and California. After honing his skills and deepening his knowledge, Julien made the decision to launch his own brand, JRS, in 2016.Today, Julien finds himself in London, where he has a showroom in the affluent South Kensington neighbourhood. It is here that he continues to translate his passions and inspirations into jewels that speak to women and men with a similarly strong sense of style and individual attitude. In 2019, dressed in his signature all-black tailoring and fedora hat, Julien accepted the award for Young Jewellery Designer of the Year at the UK Jewellery Awards. In the same year, Julien launched his first fragrance, O32, and a candle. The unisex scent, which is inspired by travel and perfumed with rare ingredients from some of the world’s most far-flung destinations, is just the beginning as Julien continues to work on new infusions and build a lifestyle brand.

 

Kastur Jewels

Rajvi Vora created her jewellery brand Kastur Jewels – named after her grandmother – seven years ago, following a carer working in humanitarian aid in some of the most volatile and vulnerable places in the world. The jewels are inspired by historic Indian royalty, the the Maharajah and Maharanis, building on her fixation with the fairytale, glamorous and opulent lifestyles that thrived during those times. Influences from these forgotten times inspire Kastur Jewels designs, which are not not replicas but modern jewels infused with Indian heritage and history. Sticking true to her roots, a percentage each Kastur Jewels sale is invested into worthy causes to help the communities Vora met before becoming a designer.

 

Kohatu + Petros 

Kohatu + Petros is an independent online jewellery boutique, founded by Varney Polydor and Joanna Salmond in 2005 following a trip to Hong Kong, where their passion was ignited by the amazing selection of beautiful gemstones found there. They started in a small Marylebone studio and then went on to open the intimate and luxurious Kohatu + Petros Jewellery boutique, located on London’s fashionable Chiltern Street. Every season Varney designs with new and exciting colour combinations inspired by art, fashion and new-season trends that translate into everyday, wearable jewellery. Using semi-precious gemstones, sterling silver and gold vermeil, the collections are designed and handcrafted by Varney and team in Marylebone.

 

Loren Nicole

Loren Teetelli began her career as an archaeologist, having received Bachelor of Arts degrees in art history and anthropology from the University of Vermont. In the following years, Teetelli worked as an archaeological lab technician and later an objects conservator in the anthropology department of the American Museum of Natural History, on numerous digs in Central and South America, pursued grant-funded field research on the ancient civilisations of northern Peru and served as a conservator of ancient and ethnographic textiles for the Americas, Oceania and Africa Collections at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Teetelli had every intention of continuing onto a PhD program in South American archeology, but discovered a new passion that eclipsed her academic interests. She had always been interested in art and craft, having studied many mediums. Always in pursuit of learning, it was not unusual when she sought out ancient metalsmithing classes to satisfy her questions about how ancient metal objects were made. Teetelli quickly took to the medium, advancing her skillset more quickly than most. Ancient metalsmithing and jewellery making transformed into an outlet for all of her interests: art, archaeology, chemistry and making. Each year, designer Loren Teetelli explores a different civilisation, studying their jewellery, other mediums, and their metalsmithing technologies to identify the core of what binds the period together and then translate those key elements into modern designs, using the same technologies that would have been used.

 

Métier by Tomfoolery

Métier was dreamt up by Laura Kay on the shop floor of her parents’ jewellery gallery, Tomfoolery, which has been serving north London and farther afield for more than 20 years. Growing up, Laura spent her weekends working in the gallery and then in 2011 she made the decision to leave her job in fashion and advertising production to take over the reins. Laura began to offer her customers a bespoke service for engagement and wedding rings, and as demand grew she was inspired to start designing her own collection of fine jewellery that can be enjoyed every day. In 2015, Métier by Tomfoolery launched – a range of affordable, delicate, 9ct gold jewellery designed to be self-styled and interchangeable for every day. It was an instant hit.

 

Mocielli

Mocielli jewellery is inspired by feminine archetypes ingrained deep in our beings and strives to be a precious reminder of the virtues and strengths we carry within. The human touch of traditional craftsmen, focus on the ornamentation and finer details is a crucial element to Mocielli designs. Love for gemstones, and also for their perfect imperfections, is supported by gemological knowledge and plays an essential part in the story of the brand. The aim is to draw from the strength of the traditions of the past to create contemporary jewellery that is timeless but with a modern edge. In Jungian theory, archetypes are deep enduring patterns of thought and behavior that remain powerful over long periods of time, and transcend cultures. Plato referred to archetypes as Forms, which he saw as pre-existing ideal templates or blueprints. There are a few main feminine archetypes: Queen, Maiden, Lover, Mother, Priestess, Warrioress. These archetypes are fractures of a complete woman and they stand for different varieties of female energy, each with their own unique areas of focus. Represented this way, it allows women to understand and affirm their strengths, and to cultivate missing or recessive female energies to help support personal growth.

 

Moniani

Fine jewellery maison Moniani was founded in 2017 by Monica Rughani. Jewellery was in Rughani’s blood, with the family jewellery legacy dating back 90 years when her grandfather started working with precious gemstones and loved designing jewellery inspired by nature. The love for gems and telling a beautiful story through fine jewellery passed on from generation to generation. Rughani believes that “to create a jewellery piece, you have to understand and love the woman; she has to feel special, beautiful and elegant, and the jewellery has to feel light as a feather, when she wears it”. These words shape all Moniani fine jewellery. The precious gems, the design and the craftsmanship, through their refinement, speciality and uniqueness, bring Moniani jewellery the elegance and nobility of a rare masterpiece.

 

MyriamSOS

MyriamSOS provides versatile jewellery that stands out from the crowd – multi-functional, elegant pieces for the on-the-go women of today. Like Chanel’s little black dress, myriamSOS has a contemporary yet timeless feel. The brand has captured the attention of international media such as British Vogue, The Telegraph, Glamour, O.K., Harpers’ Bazaar, Tatler, Marie Claire China and industry bible Retail Jeweller. Its award-winning flagship collection Transformers is the outcome of extensive design research. The transformable pieces turn into rings, bracelets or pendants with a simple click and twist. Expertly crafted, they allow much greater versatility than traditional jewellery. The jewels combine precious stones and metals with expert hand construction, creating matchless items which can be personalised in terms of gemstone colours and settings, and engraved to order. The collection features intelligent and flexible designs that stand out from the crowd.

 

Nadine Aysoy 

Born in Antwerp, the global capital of diamonds, Nadine Aysoy was surrounded by the sparkle of gemstones since her childhood, as her grandfather was a famous diamond dealer. When she was 14, her family moved to Switzerland, the home of banking, and it inspired her to start a career in finance that would take her across the world to Zurich, New York, Los Angeles and London, where she now lives. In 2018, Nadine decided to turn her jewellery-design hobby into a profession and launched the Nadine Aysoy jewellery brand. Inspired by the beauty of nature, various forms of art and precious stones, her jewels are handcrafted in Antwerp. Many of the decorative elements in the jewellery are inspired by Nadine’s keen eye for fashion and modern trends.

 

Neelu

Neelu founder and creative director Neelu Kaur is a practicing attorney based in Los Angeles who designs modern and exotic fine jewellery using conflict-free diamonds that have been ethically sourced. Each piece is set with one of Neelu’s signature deep-green emeralds, which are primarily sourced in Brazil. These emeralds signify ever-evolving growth and success. The Neelu jewellery line is a reflection of the city it was founded in and is a representation of the cultural melting pot we live in today. The styles and symbols are intended to transcend the status quo to speak to women of all cultures and backgrounds, while also relating to each woman on an individual level. The jewels are elegant staples, promoting positive, essential energies including balance, protection and glamour; things that each woman desires. The pieces can be layered for a sophisticated, modern look.

 

Oberig

When Tatiana Kondratyuk was planning the launch of Oberig, she was not doing risk analyses. Nor did she stop to make a business plan. All she was focused on was making her dream a reality. When the first Oberig pendant was complete, it became clear to her that she was meant to make jewellery. Inspired by Slavic traditions and the beauty of her homeland, Oberig jewellery is a tribute to Kondratyuk’s Ukrainian heritage. The jewels are designed around ancient talismanic symbols. Each is selected for its wellbeing properties, with clients choosing symbols from categories that offer protection in areas such as love, maternity, health, harmony and protection. Each piece of Oberig jewellery is carefully designed and crafted, with such attention to detail that the jewellery house offers a lifetime warranty on every piece.

 

Remay London

Remay London was founded in 2015 by Remi Andre, who – with 20 years of experience in sourcing, designing and manufacturing – brings his passion to life by blending colours and producing some of the most exciting pearl creations. Using only naturally coloured, high-quality cultured pearls, Remay specialises in combining its unique designs with the limitless array of hues on offer, producing a truly distinctive range of creative possibilities. Some pieces will need time to develop, awaiting the the perfect colour or the right size to form what will become a unique piece of jewellery. Remay sources its pearls from well-known, reliable and trusted pearl farmers all around the world, using only premium pearls and unusual colours. Its jewels often feature: mysterious black Tahitian South Sea pearls, all iridescent in their array of  colours from deep purple to the highly desirable Peacock; naturally occurring orange, peach and lilac freshwater pearls from China; golden Indonesian pearls; and the the unrivalled Australian white South Sea pearls.

 

Runa Jewelry

Simon Harrison

Since the late 1970s, Simon Harrison and his team of designers and craftsmen have made jewellery for some of the most iconic names in fashion and music. With a body of work which captures pioneering moments in contemporary style, the Simon Harrison team have helped costume jewellery to become the vibrant category it is today. From their central London studio, highly skilled designers and craftsmen produce pieces of jewellery with extraordinary attention to detail and craftsmanship. At Simon Harrison, the team believe that jewellery should express something about the wearer and bring them joy. Jewellery is their passion, and they aim to create expressive, inspiring and accessible fashion jewellery. They like to say that the “enjoyment of jewellery is intuitive; not that different from primitive man’s first impulse to wear a beautiful shell around his neck or to pass that on as a token of love”. In short, jewellery should be uplifting to the wearer and an expression of their personality.

 

Susannah King Jewels

Susannah King Jewels was founded by designer goldsmith Susannah King in 2018. The brand has gone from strength to strength, first being featured in British Vogue and Brides magazine in early 2018, and then working internationally with fashion designers and a celebrity clientele. In 2019, Susannah King Jewels took part in The Jewellery Cut Live at London Fashion Week and became a Bronze partner of the National Film awards. The brand is now shaking up the jewellery industry as 21-year-old Susannah continues a four-generation-long family legacy of creating beautiful handmade jewellery.

Read more about Susannah King in an exclusive The Jewellery Cut interview here

 

Zeemou Zeng

Zeemou Zeng is an innovative, premium and cutting-edge designer brand. Founded by Zeemou Zeng in 2017, the company specialises in fine jewellery, fashion accessories and crystalware and also provides bespoke jewellery services. Zeemou Zeng’s philosophy is to create unique designs that possess both functionality and beauty. The brand offers new value through its unique design, exquisite craftsmanship and ‘can do’ attitude. The goal of the business is to grow to become a premium global brand, epitomising all that is innovative, elegant and stylish.

 

The Jewellery Cut Live will take place within The Pompadour Ballroom in Cafe Royal on London’s Regent Street on September 15th & 16th, 2019. Register for your free ticket to attend here. 

British jewellery designer Jade Hibbert has turned to crowdfunding platform Kickstarter to help take her business to the next level – and you can help.

 

The designer, who has been making jewellery for six years and launched her own brand Jwllry by Jade in 2014, is aiming to raise £5,600 within 18 days. The money will be invested in growing her business, which she runs from Bedfordshire.

 

“I’m at a stage where I’m very happy with the progress that I’ve made, but I need that extra push,” says Jade, who had considered launching a similar fundraising drive last year but feels that 2020 is a more appropriate time. “I’ve had to learn to be more business minded, as well as stay creative. A year ago, I don’t know if I would have understood how to utilise a cash injection, but now I know where I need help. I’ve done lots of research, spoken to people. I’m looking to really push it.”

 

Should you wish to get involved in helping Jade to reach her target, there are more than just good feelings to be won in doing so. The designer has created a range of gifts to reward those helping her to invest further in her business, including tote bags, jewellery polishing cloths and positive affirmation prints.

 

For those who want to mix philanthropy with jewellery collecting, pledges of more than £55 will be reciprocated with a piece of Jwllry by Jade jewellery. Stretch to £185 and you will receive a limited-edition gold-plated silver Jacob Serpent medallion necklace that Jade has created especially for this project.

 

“I wanted to create something that was on trend, that had meaning,” says the jeweller, who named the medallion after her nephew, Jacob. “I feel like there’s been a lot of change in the world; that everyone has gone through something, especially with Covid. The serpent symbolises transformation, rebirth, and I thought that was very fitting with what’s going on.”

 

Jade’s Kickstarter pledge, which has already raised more than £2,000, will close on 14^th October, 2020. Should she not hit her £5,600 mark, Jwllry by Jade will receive none of the money raised.

Loren Teetelli’s journey into the world of jewellery began in the unlikely context of an art history and anthropology degree. This led to field research in Central and South America, as well as conservation roles at the American Museum of Natural History and Metropolitan Museum of Art. One aspect of her research was ancient jewellery, so she took a jewellery-making class, simply to connect more deeply with her subject. Or so she thought.

 

Fascinated by the hand skills required to fashion jewellery in ancient times, and very much approaching the subject as an academic, Teetelli forewent a traditional jewellery-making course in favour of ancient metalsmithing. Wishing to learn from the best, she scoured New York for experts in this field, who could teach her unusual techniques such a gold granulation – the process of using droplets of gold to create a textured surface. Traditional chain making was also on her list.

 

“[These experts] were hard to find, originally, but then it became much easier as they all stemmed from the same school,” remembers Teetelli. “It came from curiosity and wanting to learn. I never thought about making it a career.”

 

How a curiosity became a career

Others, however, noticed her skill, and soon – as is often the way with amateur jewellers on the turn – friends and family started coming to her with requests for jewels. What was a hobby became a profession, when Teetelli “just woke up one day” six years ago and realised the career path stretching before her in the museum world was not for her. On a “whim” she packed up and left New York for the sunnier climes of Los Angeles, and so the beginnings of the Loren Nicole jewellery brand began to take shape.

 

Teetelli, who now devotes herself to crafting jewels in her Los Angeles studio full time, feels the move from East Coast to West Coast has been intrinsic to the success of her brand. “I would say that LA has had a tremendous impact in my personal life and on my mental health, which definitely translates to how well I am able to create,” she shares. “We need that time to unplug and relax to feed our creativity [that Los Angeles allows].”

 

What that creativity boost has led to is jewellery with a deep significance. All Loren Nicole jewellery takes its inspiration from historical jewels worn by ancient civilisations, and more than just chasing a look, Teetelli tries to use the same techniques as artisans working hundreds, or thousands, of years ago.

 

“My background in archaeology doesn’t just inform the style of jewellery I create, it’s completely intertwined with why I chose to design jewellery,” she says. “I feel that I’m raising awareness of the artistry of ancient civilisations. I see the collection as an educational opportunity to preserve knowledge of ancient techniques.”

 

Working just like the ancients, including no electricity

One of the most exciting things about Loren Nicole jewellery is that every piece is crafted by hand, using exceptionally rare techniques. Teetelli works at the bench herself, using ancient tools and no electricity. “By making these choices, I have also chosen to always remain a small company,” says the designer of the limitations of staying true to historical jewellery making techniques. “I don’t really see that as a drawback. I actually find it to be liberating, because it allows me to cultivate much closer relationships with my collectors and followers.”

 

A glance at Loren Nicole jewellery will impress the importance of large – often carved and colourful – gemstones to the brand’s DNA. From beads to miniature animal sculptures in yellow beryl, topaz, aquamarine, tanzanite and chalcedony, to name but a few, every gem that passes through the Loren Nicole workshop is imbued with a historical reference. “I decided to only work with gemstone-cutting techniques and styles that would have been used in antiquity –  cabochons, tablets, smooth beads and carved stone,” says the designer, who has a fondness for one gem in particular.

 

“I have a deep relationship with rock crystal,” she continues. “It’s definitely my default stone. Much like the ancients, I’m not too distracted by the cultural value of the stones. What is most important is, ‘Is it beautiful?’. The combination of the clean, crisp clearness of rock crystal against high-carat gold really doesn’t get more aesthetically perfect – it’s modern and ancient all at once.”

 

A bespoke, handcrafted alloy of gold

All Loren Nicole jewellery is made using a bespoke 22ct yellow gold alloy. This unusual alloy of gold – a richer, and pricier, yellow than the standard 18ct used by luxury maisons, but a smidge below the purity of 24ct gold favoured by traditional Asian jewellery – is undoubtedly Loren Nicole’s aesthetic signature. This vibrant, warm and sumptuous gold is an alloy that Teetelli creates herself, and she evocatively describes the precious metal as being “like a warm hug”.

 

Teetelli uses this gold in all her creations, but it particularly shines in her chains. As with all her jewels, the emphasis is on handmaking, with each link crafted and connected by the goldsmith in her studio, inspired by designs and techniques that made their debut in Ancient Greece or under Roman rule. “My chains have a devoted following,” she says. “There’s something quite beautiful about their weight. They respond to being worn and held, as the links become more and more sinuous with wear.”

 

Just as the forward march of history carries on, so too will Teetelli’s work as she continues to plunder the history books for inspiration for new designs. “I’m currently working on some new additions to our permanent collection, including two new chains, and I’ll be revealing a new line highlighting a specific ancient civilisation,” she says.

 

For now, Teetelli remains tight lipped on just which ancient civilisation she will turn to next. What is guaranteed is that it will be another fascinating insight into jewellery history as this extraordinary jeweller continues on her mission to study, revive and reimagine goldsmithing of the past.

The Asscher family name is synonymous with diamonds. Since 1854, it has been involved in cutting some of the world’s most famous gems, including the Cullinan diamond – the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found.

 

The 3,106ct Cullinan diamond was presented to King Edward VII in 1907, and it was to the Asscher brothers in Amsterdam the king sent this invaluable rock for cutting. The rough produced many valuable diamonds, including the 530.4ct Cullinan I, or Great Star of Africa, which is now mounted on the head of the Sovereign’s Sceptre with Cross, part of the Royal jewels. Seven other diamonds liberated from this mammoth rough diamond are also privately owned by Queen Elizabeth II, who inherited them from her grandmother Queen Mary.

 

Join Mike Asscher, a sixth-generation diamantaire and member of this prestigious jewellery family, at The Jewellery Cut Live on February 17^th as he discusses his family legacy. During a private afternoon session titled Royal Asscher: A most personal history of diamonds, Asscher will take you back in time to give an insight into the creation of some of the most-talked about gems to pass through his family’s skilled hands.

 

A skilled gemmologist himself – and creator of Royal Asscher Round Brilliant, Oval and Cushion cuts – Asscher will talk deeply on diamonds. As well as taking you on a historical journey, he will also talk about the future of diamonds, current trends and the ethics surrounding their production.

 

Guests will also have the chance to view replicas of royal tiaras and famous diamonds, and you will have the chance to put your own questions to Asscher, whether those be related to the cutting process of historic gems or modern-day conundrums surrounding investment, ethics and jewels.

Luxury jewellery can’t be sold on Instagram. This is the most common misconception jewellery influencer Katerina Perez comes up against, and it is a myth she is hoping to bust once and for all with the launch of a specialist online course – How to sell jewellery on Instagram – and help others to achieve the successes she knows are possible.

 

Katerina’s confidence on this subject comes from experience. While some might struggle to believe that serious jewels change hands via the social media platform, she has, on multiple occasions, facilitated sales of high jewellery – including a necklace priced at more than $100,000 – with a well-chosen Instagram post.

 

“If you work on building the right audience, Instagram does work for sales and it can elevate a brand’s image,” says Katerina, who before becoming an influencer worked in sales for luxury jewellery brands including Tiffany & Co, Chaumet, Asprey and Boghossian. “I only show high jewellery, so over seven years I’ve managed to build an audience that is interested in high jewellery and can buy it.”

Unlock the secrets of Instagram

Katerina launched her first How to sell jewellery on Instagram course in October, and the fourth edition will launch on May 3rd, 2021. The seven-week course, which requires a minimum time commitment of four hours a week, according to the social media star, has proved incredibly successful and its growing alumni have reported impressive results.

 

“Some people have made their first sale through Instagram during the course,” says Katerina. “One person shared that, after completing the course, her post reach [the number of people who see a post] went up 46%. Another said they have now finally cracked the code of building a community, and their engagement rate had increased as a result. These are just a couple of examples of success stories. ”

 

The course is aimed at jewellery designers, brands, retailers and executives who want to improve their Instagram presence and start selling, or improve sales, through the social media platform. All levels of students are catered for, with lessons covering algorithms, page curation, content creation, growing and engaging with your following, how to write the perfect caption, and advice on how to best use Instagram tools such as stories, ads and the shopping function.

Flexible learning over seven weeks 

The next How to sell jewellery on Instagram course by Katerina Perez will run from May 3^rd to June 20^th, 2021, with online lessons spread out over the seven weeks. As well as two 30-minute lessons a week, participants will be offered a number of downloadable guides and checklists crafted by Katerina and her team with advice on how to win at Instagram and hacks on how to make posts more successful and generate sales.

 

“I guarantee that all the information on the course has been tried by me, and it works, but only if you implement it over a period of time,” says Katerina. “You need to apply these tools on a regular basis to see a growth in your account, and then sales.”

 

There are three tiers of participation in the course, with prices starting at £300. The elevated gold and platinum packages unlock additional lessons and these students will be given optional homework that will be assessed by the Katerina Perez team. They will also be given access to exclusive networking opportunities with other students in their tier. Those investing in the top platinum package will also have a direct line to Katerina Perez for the duration of the course, and the Instagram pro will personally check their homework and carry out a personal audit of their account or a give a one-to-one consultation.

An investment in the future

“I joined many courses in the past, but I have to say that this course was one of the best I have ever taken,” says Christina Brummet, founder of the German jewellery brand Brummé. “I learned so many technical possibilities I didn’t know about before. The most important thing is that I had to work on my Instagram myself, and that needs a lot of self reflection. It was hard work but absolutely necessary, and in the end I changed so many things on my [Instagram] account. Now I’m happy about the new look and I couldn’t have achieved it without the course.”

 

As well as hearing from Katerina and her team during How to sell jewellery on Instagram, there are additional guest lecturers, including fellow jewellery influencer Preeta Agarwal, who speaks on how to create professional-looking images with a smart phone, and Ksenia Smirnova of design agency 15:03, who shares tips on how to create a seamless brand image by selecting the right font, colours, tone of voice and other visual storytelling skills.

 

“The idea behind my course is to help jewellers to use Instagram as a selling tool,” says Katerina, who has built an Instagram following of more than 350,000 high jewellery fans by using the same tools she will share with students in the course. “It is a misconception that expensive jewellery doesn’t sell on Instagram. I’m the living proof that it does. You just need to know how to use it.”

Katerina Perez’s How to sell jewellery on Instagram social media course will run from May 3^rd to June 20^th, 2021. The seven-week online course ranges in price from £300 to £2,000, with limited numbers of places available on the silver, gold and platinum levels. Get more information and find out how to book your place here  

 

Watch Katerina Perez in conversation with The Jewellery Cut co-founder Rachael Taylor on the subject of social media over on our IGTV now

Fine jeweller Roxanne Rajcoomar-Hadden understands the extra hurdles black jewellers in Britain must face to launch their careers, having learned them the hard way through first-hand experiences.

 

Born to a Jamaican mother and an Indian-Guyanese father, Rajcoomar-Hadden, who shared her experiences of juggling motherhood and entrepreneurship at The Jewellery Cut Live last year, grew up in London with dreams of following in her jeweller grandfather’s footsteps. It is an aspiration she has achieved, and she now runs her own fine jewellery business Roxanne Rajcoomar-Hadden in Fulham that specialises in bespoke jewels and offering the type of cornerstone services family jewellers are synonymous with – but with a contemporary twist.

 

From being mistaken for the cleaner to being rejected for jobs, the colour of her skin has impacted her journey through the jewellery industry. Here, she shares with us some of her experiences and hopes for the future.

 

The jewellery industry is lacking in racial diversity. Why do you think this is?

“In my opinion, it starts from a young age. If your parents came in the Windrush, like mine did, they often came with very little, and whatever they did have was reserved because jobs were not easily attained. As jewellery is a luxury item, these purchases probably were not made very often, which means they were hardly seen and worn. Therefore, there was little aspiration for it.

 

“The career opportunities after attending state schools are often very limiting, too, which means you can feel lucky just to get a job full stop. My careers advisor actually laughed at me when I told him I was interested in the fashion and jewellery industry. If the people in charge, who are supposed to advise you on your interests and your potential, do not think you’re capable – why would you?

 

“The luxury market retail world is often the first impression we have of these industries, and they are totally unwelcoming to everyone who walks in the store – especially black people. On top of that, there are multiple barriers that black jewellers face, such as ‘not being relatable to the desired client’, lack of social mobility, lack of funding, lack of role models in the industry, and not being able to afford the jewellery training courses. To list just a few.

 

“I was lucky enough that my grandfather was a goldsmith. Although I never met him, my family always told me stories about him and his jewellery and there was some jewellery in our home, much of which I had my eye on from a very young age.”

 

As you mentioned, many black jewellers who study the craft often don’t make it as independent designers because of a lack of access to funding to create fine jewellery collections, or a lack of connections within the established jewellery community. Do you have any advice for aspiring black jewellers?

“Everyone’s circumstances are very different, but I started my brand with more affordable pieces with an aim of eventually creating fine jewellery. I couldn’t afford to invest in the production at the beginning. I also worked for various jewellers while I saved to set up on my own, as well as offering to work in a workshop one day a week in return for access to their workbench. In the early days, I bought equipment second hand or on sale. I also made it clear to clients that everything was handmade from scratch, so I didn’t have any stock.

 

“Connections are difficult to make, but along the way you will eventually carve your own path. I met with lots of other established jewellers, bought them coffee and sought advice wherever and whenever I could. I would always offer my help if I could, even if it meant running errands.

 

“With that said, I don’t think it should have to be so exhausting in 2020, especially with the presence of social media and the awareness that creates. The larger establishments need to stop being so elitist and offer programs where possible. We cannot give ourselves these roles or experiences and there needs to be more accountability from the larger organisations. For example, one of my first jobs in the industry was an admin role at Gem-A. Even though I was just working in the administration team, they offered me the opportunity to sit in on the diamond lectures, and gave me all the literature for free. That certainly gave me a leg up.”

 

What needs to change to encourage more diversity in the jewellery industry? 

“This change is pretty simple and straightforward. The large establishments need to stop judging potential new candidates on the colour of their skin. Interviewing and recruitment has to be about the skills required for the role as per the job descriptions advertised. I have been turned away from jobs several times because I don’t ‘fit what they are looking for’, or ‘I am not quite right for the role’, when my professional skills fit the job descriptions perfectly. Yet they end up hiring someone who does not fit the job description but looks the part. All establishments should be called out for this behaviour as it’s racist and should no longer be tolerated.

 

“I hope these conversations give young black people the confidence to speak out; the confidence I did not have for a long time. Additionally, if more black people are seen within jewellery retail then as a black person, you are much more likely to feel confident to study hard and work in the industry, because you will feel comfortable within the space, and represented.”

 

Much of the materials used in fine jewellery are sourced in Africa, yet Africans are not widely represented in the jewellery industry. Does this need to change? And if so, what should happen to redress the balance?

“100% it needs to change. In my opinion, a lot of these issues stem from how we are educated at schools. In 2012, I moved to Australia for a year, where I volunteered for Save The Children at their African reading club, essentially helping African refugee children aged 5 to 9 with their homework and reading. When I initially met them, I asked all of them where they were from, but they all felt too ashamed to tell me. Over the weeks, I taught them about the wonders of Africa, and the sorts of things that are produced there, including diamonds, of course. I talked to some of the girls – who I suspect were from Afghanistan – about the beautiful semi-precious stones that are mined there, and their famous delicious apples, among other things. I noticed that the children loved our chats and would slowly begin to open up with memories of their homeland. They simply had not known the positive things about their countries and the great things they had to offer. They assumed I would think less of them because they came from war-torn countries, as if it was their fault.

 

“If there was more education about some of the wonders and treasures that can be discovered in the producer’s countries, like in southern Africa, for example, the world would think differently about those places. And the natives would feel confident about who they are and where they came from. Not only that, we would feel proud of what the land produces and likely want to work in those sectors.

 

“Additionally, the huge establishments that own the mining companies and that recruit the sorters should make sure that the freedom to move into different sectors within the company is available to everyone. This will help create diversity.”

 

There has been much discussion in other industries about reparations to be made to the black community in relation to slavery or colonialism. With the jewellery industry fuelled by gold and gemstone deposits largely from Africa, which are not owned by Africans, is this an issue the jewellery industry needs to look at?

“This a tricky one. UK taxpayers only stopped paying reparations [to descendants of former slave owners] in 2015 – that’s almost 200 years of payments. Unfortunately, there is still a lot of corruption in the producer countries, a lot of backhanded deals and negotiations between the mining companies and the government which mean the people don’t see a fraction of what they should. More needs to be done about the ethical and environmental way our resources are sourced. Fairtrade gold isn’t enough.

 

“We need to take a long, hard look at ourselves, and break down every pipeline from the beginning to work out how to create real change. It sounds like an impossible task, but so many of these processes were implemented by the likes of Cecil Rhodes, who squeezed the life out of everything he put his hand on for his own personal benefit and financial gain. The way people were treated, specifically black people, and the way the environment was thought of in the 19th century is totally different to what we believe today. Therefore, we cannot keep doing the same things from the core of the pipeline and expect different results at the end. I wish I had the answers, and more power.”

 

Have you experienced racism during your career within the jewellery industry?

“I think it would be difficult to find a black person in the industry that hasn’t, sadly. I think the biggest issue we suffer from is the micro aggressions and the engrained perceptions people have of black people. From not getting jobs because of the colour of your skin, to people thinking you’re going to steal something, or, my worst one to date, people thinking I am the cleaner on a diamond sorting floor.”

 

What can people do to support black jewellers at this time?

“More than anything, I think, it’s understanding that just because something is made by someone who doesn’t look like you, or have the same social network as you, it doesn’t mean that you won’t like it or that it’s not for you. I ask that people look at the work of black jewellers as they would someone they ‘relate’ to, and support us accordingly.”

 

With the global spotlight on the Black Lives Matter movement right now, what are your hopes for the future?

“Equality.”

 

Portraits of Roxanne Rajcoomar-Hadden taken by Lily Bertrand-Webb; Photos from The Jewellery Cut Live shot by Paul Martyniuk of Anarchy Photography 

The Jewellery Cut Live in association with Fuli Gemstones is cancelling its second show of 2020, which was due to be held in early October.

 

The Jewellery Cut was one of the only events organisers to host a successful jewellery show in 2020. It had planned to run a socially distanced second edition of its boutique London jewellery show this year, however government restrictions have forced it to postpone larger-scale live events until 2021.

 

The Jewellery Cut Live in association with Fuli Gemstones was originally slated to be held in September to coincide with London Fashion Week. This was moved to October 11^th & 12^th, as the government had previously planned to lift the 30-people cap at event venues from October 1^st. However, it has since said this will be reviewed, and with the introduction of the ‘rule of six’, cancelling of piloted sporting events and Boris Johnson’s additional lockdown measures announced today, the team has taken the decision not to go ahead.

 

“We are absolutely devastated, as we had a wonderful roster of designers lined up, who were so looking forward to getting out there and meeting with customers again, and lots of our magpies had been signing up for tickets,” said The Jewellery Cut co-founder Rachael Taylor. “However, the situation is entirely out of our control. The current climate is not conducive to hosting larger events, and we have always said that we would respect any government guidelines.”

 

The Jewellery Cut team will now be looking forward to the next The Jewellery Cut Live in association with Fuli Gemstones in 2021. Dates will be announced in due course.

 

In the meantime, The Jewellery Cut will explore alternative ways to champion independent jewellery design digitally and through more intimate events. “We have always had a focus on positivity in everything that we do at The Jewellery Cut,” said The Jewellery Cut co-founder Andrew Martyniuk. “While this has undoubtedly been disappointing, we are looking forward to strengthening our brand during this time and coming back even stronger next year with The Jewellery Cut Live in association with Fuli Gemstones.”

 

Fuli Gemstones, which has signed up to sponsor The Jewellery Cut Live for the next three years, has reiterated its full support for the event when it returns in 2021. “My mantra these past six months has been ‘adapt and overcome’,” says Pia Tonna, chief marketing officer of the show’s headline sponsor Fuli Gemstones. “Safety is our first priority, and, as such, the cancellation of this season of The Jewellery Cut Live in association with Fuli Gemstones is a necessity. Flexibility is key during these testing times, and through Fuli’s continued support and understanding, we will spread hope for the designers and the jewellery industry.”

 

To be the first to know about future dates for The Jewellery Cut Live in association with Fuli Gemstones, as well as other events and news, sign up to our weekly newsletter

When a loved one marks out a treasure for you at their passing, it is a precious moment that leaves you with an heirloom rich in significance. When Maria Leoni Sceti’s husband’s aunt passed away, her bequest was unusual both in size and in that it transformed Maria’s life, setting her on a quest to bring new vigour to the legacy of costume jewellery designer Sonia Petroff.

 

Sonia and the aunt were one in the same, and the bequest that was left to Maria and her husband Elio Leoni Sceti in 2015 was the designer’s 800-piece archive. Sonia, famed for her vivacious outsized fashion jewels and jewellery belts, started out in the markets of Buenos Aires in the 1950s before moving to Rome in the next decade, where she soaked up the glamour of La Dolce Vita lifestyle.

 

Sonia’s whimsical designs, inspired by her love of travel and life, captivated buyers for four decades, but when she retired in the 1980s, so too did the Sonia Petroff brand.

Pouring over the gift Sonia had left to her activated a stirring that had already started to rumble within Maria; she was looking for a fresh challenge in life, and this trove of brightly hued belts and brooches ignited a spark. “I was so moved by her incredible, yet under the radar, career that I wanted to ensure her legacy was continued, and pay tribute to her and her creative designs,” says Maria, who was in her 50s when she made this career U-tun and relaunched Sonia Petroff in 2018.

 

The designs within the revived Sonia Petroff offering echo those Maria found in the archives, either replicas with contemporary tweaks or fresh designs based on motifs lifted from heritage creations. For example, the iconic Sonia Petroff Aries jewellery belt that made 1970s Vogue fashion editors swoon is nigh on the same as that worn by Phoebe Waller Bridge over a flowing red dress as she accepted her Television Critics Award in 2019 for Fleabag.

 

“It happens to be one of my best sellers,” says Maria of the enduringly stylish bejewelled Aries belt. “I have revamped it a bit by adding a hidden way to make it adjustable in the back, making it more size friendly, and have also added a few new colourways, giving it a modern twist.”

As well as bejewelled belts and bags, there is the Sonia Petroff jewellery. Stirring up visions of seafood dinners on the Italian coastline, the gold-plated costume jewels, laden with faux gems, brandish golden lobsters (the brand’s signature motif) – discretely on the wrist atop leather cuffs, or brazenly on the lapel as enormous brooches. Earrings, necklaces and rings similarly do not mess around when it comes to scale, colour and joie de vivre.

 

“I believe shoppers right now are looking for a bit of escapism and pieces which are colourful, creative and fun are a perfect way to do this,” says Maria of her bold jewels, all of which are made in Italy. “Couture jewellery opposed to fine jewellery also has the advantage that the price point allows the freedom to have a bit of fun when deciding on a purchase. A lobster dangling from an ear, blowing aquamarine crystal bubbles… why not?!”

 

While the designs are delightfully frivolous, Maria is quite serious when it comes to ethics. Sonia Petroff continued to support its Italian artisans during the first emergence of the Covid-19 pandemic that so badly hurt the country. “These family-run businesses had to close and most of their orders came to a grinding halt,” recalls Maria, who credits Matches Fashion for helping her sustain the workflow as it did not cancel orders when the crisis hit. “As we aren’t seasonal, they didn’t cancel their orders, but worked with us to push back the delivery dates until Italy was up and running again. The vintage, timeless feel of the collections mean they never go out of fashion.”

Maria is also a philanthropist, and every Sonia Petroff jewel raises funds for girls’ education charity Room to Read. In less than a year, sales of its escapist jewels raised enough money to fund 36,500 days of schooling for disadvantaged girls around the world.

 

Good vibes – both philanthropic and sartorial – are the aim for Sonia Petroff going forward, says Maria, and this means slowing down. “Our ethos at Sonia Petroff is to promote slow fashion in everything we do” she says, pointing out that Sonia Petroff offers lifetime repairs on its items to ensure they stay in circulation. “Slow fashion for me means: premium quality that will last for years to come; bold statement pieces that will make an impact, yet are sophisticated so they don’t go out of style; and, finally, ageless – we aim for all our designs to strike the right balance between fun and refined so they can be worn by women of all ages. With these three qualities, they will last a lifetime and transcend seasons.”

 

That Maria has been able to shake the Sonia Petroff brand from a four-decade-long slumber without a major design overhaul is proof in itself that these wild jewellery belts and gregariously cascading fashion jewels not only offer an escapism for now, but the promise of a slow-burning style endurance for the future.

November’s birthstone is a versatile gem, which will be welcome news for mysterious Scorpios and curious Sagittarius. Though blue is perhaps the most famous of the topaz rainbow, this gemstone can also be found in shades of yellow, orange, pink, violet, brown and red, or with no colour at all.

 

Found in warm climes such Brazil, Mexico, Pakistan, Nigeria, Namibia, Sri Lanka and Madagascar, topaz has been cherished throughout history as a gemstone that offers many talismanic properties.

 

The Middle Ages were a time of great superstition in Europe, and those who could afford its protection turned to topaz, as it was believed to ward off spells and malice. Though our days of witch burning are long behind us, there are many who still believe in the talismanic power of November’s birthstone. In India, for example, topaz is worn above the heart to unleash its powers to give long life, beauty and intelligence to wearers.

 

Though excellent at warding off bad Juju and prized by the Ancient Greeks for its ability to give a dash of Herculean strength to its owners, topaz is not impervious to the odd knock. Registering a score of eight on the Mohs scale of hardness, topaz is a gem to take special care of to avoid chipping or scratching it – and definitely keep it away from any sonic jewellery cleansers.

 

For November birthday gift ideas or for a personal jewellery talisman to treasure, here is our edit of topaz jewellery to invest in now.

 

Ten topaz jewels for November birthdays…

All prices were correct on the date of publishing, but may be subject to change