Discover the jewellery designers you can meet at The Jewellery Cut Live during London Fashion Week in SeptemberMay 16, 2019 By The Jewellery Cut
On the 15th& 16th of September, 2019, The Jewellery Cut Live will bring an exciting group of contemporary jewellery designers together during London Fashion Week for two days of shopping, insights and experiences.
This will be the third edition of The Jewellery Cut Live, which launched in 2018, founded by jewellery journalist Rachael Taylor and industry consultant Andrew Martyniuk. The showcase is open to all, and regularly attracts a mix of shoppers, store buyers, press and VIPs. Entry is free, but guests must register for a ticket here.
The designers at the show are a mix of international and British stars, established names and jewellers on the rise. The Jewellery Cut Live will be a showcase of exciting contemporary talent, and there will be a range of jewels available to buy over the two days and each designer will be on hand to meet visitors, discuss the designs and plan future commissions.
Find out more about each of the jewellery brands below. To keep up to date with the latest developments about The Jewellery Cut Live, including details of this season’s series of talks, sign up for our newsletter here.
AS by Akansha Sethi
After graduating from Goldsmiths, University of London, Akansha Sethi started her jewellery brand AS by Akansha Sethi. Seeking inspiration from the places she has travelled to and by studying art movements, it has shaped her understanding of design. This has meticulously been translated into her timeless pieces of jewellery. Her design philosophy is to gain rich experiences from places around the world and transform her memories into wearable art forms. The intricacy of each piece is also reflected in the multifaceted nature of the design. This allows each one to be fragmented or unified and to be worn in several ways, creating a convertible line of jewellery. It showcases a level of interactivity, allowing the user to modify the jewellery to suit their style. Sethi’s fascination with vibrant colours has been reflected in her jewellery, through the use of semi-precious and exotic stones, with pure gold and silver. Her jewellery is not just an adornment but a piece of art, which gives immense joy to the wearer. It complements and connects with the individuality of the person wearing it, enabling them to fall in love with the ethos of the design.
Alexandra Jacoumis’s jewellery seeks to unite the intricate designs and softness of textiles with the illuminating quality of gold and precious stones. Being of Greek origin, she was always inspired by the traditional and ancient crafts. Her journey in the world of jewellery making started when she acquired a degree in Jewellery Design & Practice at Sir John Cass Department of Art, Media & Design in London. Following her studies, she worked for ethical jeweller Pippa Small, during which time she was able to perfect her craft and find her own voice. True inspiration came after having spent several months travelling around India and Greece. Her proximity to rich textiles, textures, colours and stories moved her to create a unique collection. Jacoumis’s jewellery is made by embroidering detailed forms, which are then transformed into solid 18ct gold, retaining the exact intricate detail of the thread. Afterwards, precious and semi-precious stones, such as black diamonds and sapphires, are added. Delicate and tactile, these pieces are organic. They are reminiscent of the past technique of hand-sewing and yet, they are modern and ready to wear.
Alice van Cal
When passion meets the joy of life, a designer like Alice van Cal is born. Not satisfied with simply creating ordinary pieces of jewellery, van Cal, who was born in Belgium but currently resides in London, found herself looking for something more. As she honed her skills working with leading luxury brands across London, she realised that one thing was missing from the world of jewellery: timeless pieces which you can adapt and wear in different ways but also that are relevant and meaningful to the person wearing them. Inspired by this idea, and the idea of spreading happiness with her craft, van Cal started sourcing the finest materials and applying her keen eye for detail and meticulous care to her own line of bespoke jewellery – jewellery that not only tells a unique story and inspires happiness, but promises to be timeless and elegant like no other.
Designer and founder Ama Dhami is of dual British and Indian heritage, a legacy that informs and inspires her work. Prior to the launch of her brand, Ama spent 10 years in banking, experiencing the technology-fuelled transformation of fashion businesses while sitting on the board of a British luxury multi-channel retailer as their business accelerated globally. Her learnings from this time fuelled her passion for creativity and design, along with studies at Central Saint Martins and the Gemological Institute of America, where Dhami qualified as a gemmologist. Ancient Indian jewellers would describe her attention to detail and love for precious gemstones as maharatnani, a quality that is felt in every creation, where heritage and craft are given centre stage. The beauty of opposites and a strong sense of duality are enduring themes in Ama Dhami’s designs. Precious stones sit elegantly against strong architectural lines, while a devoted attention to detail characterises every aspect, even those that may be hidden from view. This concept, the beauty of the unseen, is a sentiment at the heart of the brand, where the wearer is encouraged to consider their own wellbeing and innermost qualities.
Siberian-born Andrey Yarden studied at the Moscow State Institute of Steel And Alloys before launching his own jewellery brand in 2013 and is now based in Shanghai. His high-quality, handcrafted jewels are inspired by human senses and designed to make a statement. Each piece looks simple but sophisticated combinations of textures, surfaces and techniques lend the jewels a depth and complexity. Since 2013, Andrey Yarden jewellery has been featured in magazines such as Vogue, L’Officiel and Grazia. Yarden has also designed unique jewels for celebrities including Katy Perry, Orlando Bloom, Natalia Vodianova and Renata Litvinova.
Established in 2017, Baroque Rocks is a London-based jewellery company specialising in vintage and contemporary pieces. All of its jewels are hand-picked by founder Emma de Sybel, who has a discerning eye for arresting singularity. The name Baroque Rocks pays homage not just to the historical period of unabashed exuberance and grandeur that carried the same name, but also to the baroque pearl, whose irregular form defies common conception. The Rocks refers to the gemstones of course, yet the word carries so much more. Allusions to drama, music and exaggerated artistic style, all circling back to the non-conformity and individuality of every magnificent jewel in the Baroque Rocks collections.
Deborah Blyth’s signature design aesthetic celebrates the beauty of nature’s imperfections, exploring organic, tactile forms inspired by the natural world. Her passion for swimming and the restorative power of water began as a child living by the sea. Swimming has been her stress reliever; worries dissolve, spirits lift and this is where her best ideas are born, pushing through the chilly, silken water. Each piece of Deborah Blyth jewellery has a personality of its own, handcrafted in the brand’s London studio through the process of lost-wax casting. Many pieces are embellished with semi-precious stones for everyday luxury that can be worn from day to night. All Deborah Blyth jewels are available in sterling silver or 24ct gold vermeil, and often incorporate beautifully lustrous baroque pearls into many the designs, creating a wonderful mix of textures.
Ellis Mhairi Cameron
Ellis Mhairi Cameron is a fine jeweller, whose work is inspired by her Scottish heritage. Created by hand in her London studio, Cameron uses traditional techniques and hand skills to give her pieces their signature rugged aesthetic. Since launching her fine jewellery brand in 2017, she has secured stockists within the UK and Europe and has been featured in publications such as Vanity Fair and Retail Jeweller. Ellis has also been shortlisted for ‘Young Designer of the Year 2018’ award by Professional Jeweller. At the foundation of her brand is a belief in the beauty of imperfections, hand craftsmanship and a desire to provide clients with fine jewellery which can be handed down through the generations. The latest Ellis Mhairi Cameron collection, Origins, takes inspiration from the jewellery hoards that have been found across Scotland, containing 14ct gold pieces set with diamonds that transcend the centuries and encompass the heritage of many different lands.
Isla Gilham is an award-winning jewellery designer-maker who recently graduated from Central Saint Martins’ prestigious Jewellery Design course. Both referencing and challenging perceptions of traditional fine jewellery, her work celebrates and showcases beautiful materials whilst exploring notions of deliciousness, temptation and indulgence. Isla’s precious pieces with playful twists have won highly acclaimed awards including a Best Design accolade awarded by British jeweller Theo Fennell, and a gold award at the Goldsmiths’ Craft and Design Council Awards.
Jessica Pass London
Jessica Pass grew up on an old farm in Derbyshire’s verdant Peak District, surrounded by beautiful scenery and an artist great-grandfather who taught her how to draw from an early age. She was also interested in how things worked, taking things apart to look at the mechanisms. The first piece of jewellery she fell in love with was an ornate, hinged armour ring, given to her by my grandmother, which moved perfectly with her finger, despite being heavy. The first piece Pass made herself was an ambitious cocktail ring with a spherical globe, the lid of which split into quarters, each hinged and opening to reveal gemstones hidden within. Many Jessica Pass London pieces still conceal a hidden detail waiting to be discovered and enjoyed.
Jewels of Queensland
Jewels of Queensland is a jewellery brand that is born in Australia and made in Britain. Its jewellery celebrates the vibrant natural gemstones from Queensland, one of Australia’s most diverse and beautiful regions. All the gemstones used in its collections are ethically mined and it uses Fairtrade gold to set them. Its mining partners have a determined respect for the natural environment and comply with Queensland Government mining laws and regulations relating to the extraction of material and reclamation of mined lands. Jewels of Queensland’s founders have a very personal relationship with the miners and a deep understanding of the world they live in. Their aim is to tell the world about the beautiful natural gemstones this part of the southern hemisphere produces and to work with the family-led and small-scale miners to ensure that the beauty of this landscape is preserved. Using only natural, untreated gemstones, Ian and Rod are full of stories of the unique characters who make a living in the outback, digging for buried treasure.
Julien Riad Sahyoun
Award-winning fine jewellery designer Julien Riad Sahyoun is a creative and emotive storyteller, and an artist of hidden depths. Each jewel, crafted in 18ct gold, tells a story. Whether communicating Julien’s passion to foster unity amongst people or reviving lost languages through secret Babylonian scripts, his are jewels that have meaning and call for a second look. Growing up in Morocco, Julien was immersed in a rich culture of inspiring artisans, architecture and craftsmanship that fuelled his creativity. As did his wanderlust spirit, which opened his eyes and mind as he travelled extensively. Matching his artistic abilities with a burgeoning interest in jewellery design and gemmology, Julien studied his craft at the renowned Gemological Institute of America in both New York and California. After honing his skills and deepening his knowledge, Julien made the decision to launch his own brand, JRS, in 2016.Today, Julien finds himself in London, where he has a showroom in the affluent South Kensington neighbourhood. It is here that he continues to translate his passions and inspirations into jewels that speak to women and men with a similarly strong sense of style and individual attitude. In 2019, dressed in his signature all-black tailoring and fedora hat, Julien accepted the award for Young Jewellery Designer of the Year at the UK Jewellery Awards. In the same year, Julien launched his first fragrance, O32, and a candle. The unisex scent, which is inspired by travel and perfumed with rare ingredients from some of the world’s most far-flung destinations, is just the beginning as Julien continues to work on new infusions and build a lifestyle brand.
Rajvi Vora created her jewellery brand Kastur Jewels – named after her grandmother – seven years ago, following a carer working in humanitarian aid in some of the most volatile and vulnerable places in the world. The jewels are inspired by historic Indian royalty, the the Maharajah and Maharanis, building on her fixation with the fairytale, glamorous and opulent lifestyles that thrived during those times. Influences from these forgotten times inspire Kastur Jewels designs, which are not not replicas but modern jewels infused with Indian heritage and history. Sticking true to her roots, a percentage each Kastur Jewels sale is invested into worthy causes to help the communities Vora met before becoming a designer.
Kohatu + Petros
Kohatu + Petros is an independent online jewellery boutique, founded by Varney Polydor and Joanna Salmond in 2005 following a trip to Hong Kong, where their passion was ignited by the amazing selection of beautiful gemstones found there. They started in a small Marylebone studio and then went on to open the intimate and luxurious Kohatu + Petros Jewellery boutique, located on London’s fashionable Chiltern Street. Every season Varney designs with new and exciting colour combinations inspired by art, fashion and new-season trends that translate into everyday, wearable jewellery. Using semi-precious gemstones, sterling silver and gold vermeil, the collections are designed and handcrafted by Varney and team in Marylebone.
Loren Teetelli began her career as an archaeologist, having received Bachelor of Arts degrees in art history and anthropology from the University of Vermont. In the following years, Teetelli worked as an archaeological lab technician and later an objects conservator in the anthropology department of the American Museum of Natural History, on numerous digs in Central and South America, pursued grant-funded field research on the ancient civilisations of northern Peru and served as a conservator of ancient and ethnographic textiles for the Americas, Oceania and Africa Collections at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Teetelli had every intention of continuing onto a PhD program in South American archeology, but discovered a new passion that eclipsed her academic interests. She had always been interested in art and craft, having studied many mediums. Always in pursuit of learning, it was not unusual when she sought out ancient metalsmithing classes to satisfy her questions about how ancient metal objects were made. Teetelli quickly took to the medium, advancing her skillset more quickly than most. Ancient metalsmithing and jewellery making transformed into an outlet for all of her interests: art, archaeology, chemistry and making. Each year, designer Loren Teetelli explores a different civilisation, studying their jewellery, other mediums, and their metalsmithing technologies to identify the core of what binds the period together and then translate those key elements into modern designs, using the same technologies that would have been used.
Métier by Tomfoolery
Métier was dreamt up by Laura Kay on the shop floor of her parents’ jewellery gallery, Tomfoolery, which has been serving north London and farther afield for more than 20 years. Growing up, Laura spent her weekends working in the gallery and then in 2011 she made the decision to leave her job in fashion and advertising production to take over the reins. Laura began to offer her customers a bespoke service for engagement and wedding rings, and as demand grew she was inspired to start designing her own collection of fine jewellery that can be enjoyed every day. In 2015, Métier by Tomfoolery launched – a range of affordable, delicate, 9ct gold jewellery designed to be self-styled and interchangeable for every day. It was an instant hit.
Mocielli jewellery is inspired by feminine archetypes ingrained deep in our beings and strives to be a precious reminder of the virtues and strengths we carry within. The human touch of traditional craftsmen, focus on the ornamentation and finer details is a crucial element to Mocielli designs. Love for gemstones, and also for their perfect imperfections, is supported by gemological knowledge and plays an essential part in the story of the brand. The aim is to draw from the strength of the traditions of the past to create contemporary jewellery that is timeless but with a modern edge. In Jungian theory, archetypes are deep enduring patterns of thought and behavior that remain powerful over long periods of time, and transcend cultures. Plato referred to archetypes as Forms, which he saw as pre-existing ideal templates or blueprints. There are a few main feminine archetypes: Queen, Maiden, Lover, Mother, Priestess, Warrioress. These archetypes are fractures of a complete woman and they stand for different varieties of female energy, each with their own unique areas of focus. Represented this way, it allows women to understand and affirm their strengths, and to cultivate missing or recessive female energies to help support personal growth.
Fine jewellery maison Moniani was founded in 2017 by Monica Rughani. Jewellery was in Rughani’s blood, with the family jewellery legacy dating back 90 years when her grandfather started working with precious gemstones and loved designing jewellery inspired by nature. The love for gems and telling a beautiful story through fine jewellery passed on from generation to generation. Rughani believes that “to create a jewellery piece, you have to understand and love the woman; she has to feel special, beautiful and elegant, and the jewellery has to feel light as a feather, when she wears it”. These words shape all Moniani fine jewellery. The precious gems, the design and the craftsmanship, through their refinement, speciality and uniqueness, bring Moniani jewellery the elegance and nobility of a rare masterpiece.
MyriamSOS provides versatile jewellery that stands out from the crowd – multi-functional, elegant pieces for the on-the-go women of today. Like Chanel’s little black dress, myriamSOS has a contemporary yet timeless feel. The brand has captured the attention of international media such as British Vogue, The Telegraph, Glamour, O.K., Harpers’ Bazaar, Tatler, Marie Claire China and industry bible Retail Jeweller. Its award-winning flagship collection Transformers is the outcome of extensive design research. The transformable pieces turn into rings, bracelets or pendants with a simple click and twist. Expertly crafted, they allow much greater versatility than traditional jewellery. The jewels combine precious stones and metals with expert hand construction, creating matchless items which can be personalised in terms of gemstone colours and settings, and engraved to order. The collection features intelligent and flexible designs that stand out from the crowd.
Born in Antwerp, the global capital of diamonds, Nadine Aysoy was surrounded by the sparkle of gemstones since her childhood, as her grandfather was a famous diamond dealer. When she was 14, her family moved to Switzerland, the home of banking, and it inspired her to start a career in finance that would take her across the world to Zurich, New York, Los Angeles and London, where she now lives. In 2018, Nadine decided to turn her jewellery-design hobby into a profession and launched the Nadine Aysoy jewellery brand. Inspired by the beauty of nature, various forms of art and precious stones, her jewels are handcrafted in Antwerp. Many of the decorative elements in the jewellery are inspired by Nadine’s keen eye for fashion and modern trends.
Neelu founder and creative director Neelu Kaur is a practicing attorney based in Los Angeles who designs modern and exotic fine jewellery using conflict-free diamonds that have been ethically sourced. Each piece is set with one of Neelu’s signature deep-green emeralds, which are primarily sourced in Brazil. These emeralds signify ever-evolving growth and success. The Neelu jewellery line is a reflection of the city it was founded in and is a representation of the cultural melting pot we live in today. The styles and symbols are intended to transcend the status quo to speak to women of all cultures and backgrounds, while also relating to each woman on an individual level. The jewels are elegant staples, promoting positive, essential energies including balance, protection and glamour; things that each woman desires. The pieces can be layered for a sophisticated, modern look.
When Tatiana Kondratyuk was planning the launch of Oberig, she was not doing risk analyses. Nor did she stop to make a business plan. All she was focused on was making her dream a reality. When the first Oberig pendant was complete, it became clear to her that she was meant to make jewellery. Inspired by Slavic traditions and the beauty of her homeland, Oberig jewellery is a tribute to Kondratyuk’s Ukrainian heritage. The jewels are designed around ancient talismanic symbols. Each is selected for its wellbeing properties, with clients choosing symbols from categories that offer protection in areas such as love, maternity, health, harmony and protection. Each piece of Oberig jewellery is carefully designed and crafted, with such attention to detail that the jewellery house offers a lifetime warranty on every piece.
Remay London was founded in 2015 by Remi Andre, who – with 20 years of experience in sourcing, designing and manufacturing – brings his passion to life by blending colours and producing some of the most exciting pearl creations. Using only naturally coloured, high-quality cultured pearls, Remay specialises in combining its unique designs with the limitless array of hues on offer, producing a truly distinctive range of creative possibilities. Some pieces will need time to develop, awaiting the the perfect colour or the right size to form what will become a unique piece of jewellery. Remay sources its pearls from well-known, reliable and trusted pearl farmers all around the world, using only premium pearls and unusual colours. Its jewels often feature: mysterious black Tahitian South Sea pearls, all iridescent in their array of colours from deep purple to the highly desirable Peacock; naturally occurring orange, peach and lilac freshwater pearls from China; golden Indonesian pearls; and the the unrivalled Australian white South Sea pearls.
Runa Jewelry was founded by Lilya Areifulina in January, 2013, in Moscow. Since then, the collection has created a buzz amongst international press and has attracted many well-known collectors. Runa Jewelry’s collections consist of antique gold, diamonds and sapphires, and key designs include elegant ear cuffs, full-finger rings and body chains. Although created for herself to begin with, Areifulina’s creations became very successful in a short time thanks to an edgy aesthetic. The jewels are inspired by Indian designs, combined with a modern vibe fuelled by Areifulina’s fascination with music and art, was well as her passion for travel and the different cultures she has experienced throughout the years. Core to Runa Jewelry’s aesthetic and philosophy is jewellery that can be worn by both mother and daughter, and that will be passed on through generations.
Since the late 1970s, Simon Harrison and his team of designers and craftsmen have made jewellery for some of the most iconic names in fashion and music. With a body of work which captures pioneering moments in contemporary style, the Simon Harrison team have helped costume jewellery to become the vibrant category it is today. From their central London studio, highly skilled designers and craftsmen produce pieces of jewellery with extraordinary attention to detail and craftsmanship. At Simon Harrison, the team believe that jewellery should express something about the wearer and bring them joy. Jewellery is their passion, and they aim to create expressive, inspiring and accessible fashion jewellery. They like to say that the “enjoyment of jewellery is intuitive; not that different from primitive man’s first impulse to wear a beautiful shell around his neck or to pass that on as a token of love”. In short, jewellery should be uplifting to the wearer and an expression of their personality.
Susannah King Jewels
Susannah King Jewels was founded by designer goldsmith Susannah King in 2018. The brand has gone from strength to strength, first being featured in British Vogue and Brides magazine in early 2018, and then working internationally with fashion designers and a celebrity clientele. In 2019, Susannah King Jewels took part in The Jewellery Cut Live at London Fashion Week and became a Bronze partner of the National Film awards. The brand is now shaking up the jewellery industry as 21-year-old Susannah continues a four-generation-long family legacy of creating beautiful handmade jewellery.
Read more about Susannah King in an exclusive The Jewellery Cut interview here
Zeemou Zeng is an innovative, premium and cutting-edge designer brand. Founded by Zeemou Zeng in 2017, the company specialises in fine jewellery, fashion accessories and crystalware and also provides bespoke jewellery services. Zeemou Zeng’s philosophy is to create unique designs that possess both functionality and beauty. The brand offers new value through its unique design, exquisite craftsmanship and ‘can do’ attitude. The goal of the business is to grow to become a premium global brand, epitomising all that is innovative, elegant and stylish.
The Jewellery Cut Live will take place within The Pompadour Ballroom in Cafe Royal on London’s Regent Street on September 15th & 16th, 2019. Register for your free ticket to attend here.
Posted by: Joseph Hyde
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