In celebration of this month’s birthstone, we’ll bring you a different jewel each day set with the gem, which is rich in historical lore and healing powersAugust 4, 2020 By Rachael Taylor
August is peridot month. For those lucky enough to be born under this birthstone, the green gemstone is said to bring strength, opportunity, peace and prosperity.
Throughout August, to celebrate our new partnership with peridot miner Fuli Gemstones, we will be bringing you a different jewel each day that uses this verdant gem.
Peridot, a green gem loved by the Egyptians, the Victorians and royalty throughout history, has long been revered as a symbol of wealth, as it is said to bring prosperity to its wearer. The gem is found deep within the earth’s mantle, or locked in lava or meteorites (meaning that some peridot comes from outer space).
“Peridot doesn’t need any treatments and is highly refractive, so when cut exceptionally, the peridot gemstones give off immense brilliance,” says Fuli Gemstones chief marketing officer Pia Tonna.
The unusual grass-green shade, some rich historical lore, celestial and geological hallmarks, and healing powers make this gem one that designers love to work with. So here, for all the August babies out there, are some striking peridot jewels. Keep checking back throughout the month as we’ll be adding a new design every day, or you can follow our peridot party on social media using the hashtag #peridotparty.
What better way to kick this campaign off than with this Spear Tip ring by one of our favourite new designers, Liv Luttrell. Crafted in responsibly sourced 18ct yellow gold, this specially commissioned ring is set with a Fuli Gemstones peridot weighing 3.94 carats. “I love working with unusual gemstones and it was an amazing opportunity to work with a peridot of this size and quality,” says Luttrell. “The stone really lends itself to my signature Spear Tip ring and the collaboration with Fuli was an incredibly dynamic process which encouraged me to engage with the design in a new way.” Luttrell’s peridot ring will make its debut at The Jewellery Cut Live in association with Fuli Gemstones in 2021. To be the first to know about dates for The Jewellery Cut Live in association with Fuli Gemstones in 2021, as well as other events and news, sign up to our weekly newsletter.
Liv Luttrell 18ct yellow gold Spear Tip ring set with 3.94ct Fuli Gemstones peridot, £6,700, livluttrell.com
“These were custom for a client whose birthday is in August,” says New York-based jeweller Deborah Pagani about these bespoke 18ct yellow gold and green enamel Uva earrings set with peridot. “She loved my Uva silhouette and the monochromatic colour scheme of the enamel against the stones. Peridot is not a stone I work with regularly, but I love the vibrancy and the stone’s significance seems more relevant than ever. It is said that peridot is known to bring good health, restful sleep and peace. I’ll take it!”
Deborah Pagani 18ct yellow gold, peridot and green enamel Uva earrings, price on application, deborahpagani.com
Karma El Khalil, a jewellery designer based in New York, was inspired by the history of peridot when she created this Railway Choker, which is crafted in yellow gold and set with peridot and diamonds. “For this piece, I chose peridot because of its historical splendour; from its talismanic use in Ancient Egypt, adorning Cleopatra’s jewels and the shrine of the Three Holy Kings in Cologne, to the fact that along with diamonds, it is the only gemstone formed below the earth’s crust – all others are formed in the crust,” she says. “The idea was to incorporate a gem with a rich heritage into an elemental frame.”
Karma El Khalil 18ct yellow gold, diamond and peridot Railway choker, price on application, karmaelkhalil.com
Jewellery designer Zeemou Zeng has always found himself intrigued by the myths and meanings assigned to coloured gemstones, so when Fuli Gemstones approached him to collaborate on a design using peridot, he did a deep dive into the history of August’s birthstone. “Peridot is known as the gem of the sun and of hope,” he shares. “When I was approached by Fuli Gemstones to work with their peridot, it ignited my creativity, and I was instantly inspired by the incredible zing of its fiery green hue, and being the gemstone of hope. In our current climes, hope is what we all need to embrace the new normal.” Zeng has used Fuli Gemstones peridot beads to bring a new colourway to his Melody cocktail ring, which allows gems to roll within a secure white gold and diamond setting. “When held to the ear, the movement creates a unique chime distinctive to its material, peridot,” says Zeng. The ring will make its debut at the next edition of The Jewellery Cut Live in association with Fuli Gemstones. To be the first to know about dates for The Jewellery Cut Live in association with Fuli Gemstones in 2021, as well as other events and news, sign up to our weekly newsletter.
Zeemou Zeng 18ct white gold and diamond pavé Melody cocktail ring set with Fuli Gemstones peridot beads, £3,900, zeemouzeng.com
“Our Amulets of Harmony are thoughtfully designed with the pressures of life in mind, crafted to protect their wearers and help maintain balance in an otherwise crazy world,” says ethical jeweller Arabel Lebrusan, founder of Lebrusan Studio. “Peridot is historically associated with light, known by the Ancient Egyptians as ‘the gem of the sun’. It’s thought to relieve stress and anxiety, and subsequently entice positive energy via the law of attraction. Affordable, sustainably mined and often eye-catching in hue, peridot is a really fun little gem to work with.”
Lebrusan Studio silver filigree and fair trade peridot Hand of Fatimah pendant, £162, lebrusanstudio.com
Sometimes it is best practice to let the gemstone speak for itself, as with this charm from Los Angeles fine jewellery brand Retrouvaí. The Heirloom charm is a one-of-a-kind design, with a round peridot nestled within a smooth bezel setting. The 14ct yellow gold charm itself has been textured to create an almost floral effect. “Peridot is underrated,” says Retrouvaí founder Kirsty Stone. “I find it to be such a happy gemstone with a lot of personality. I particularly love the way it pairs with yellow gold.”
Retrouvaí 14ct yellow gold and peridot Heirloom charm, $940, retrouvai.com
What could be more summery than a long, cool drink topped with lemons and limes? Perhaps this ring from New York jewellery designer Brent Neale. From the designer’s Gypsy collection, the 18ct yellow gold ring stars a cushion-cut orange sapphire and trillion-cut peridot in a perfectly streamlined bezel setting. “As a huge fan of yellow gold, I love working with peridot because the palette plays so well together — just like lemons and limes,” says designer Brent Neale. “The combination gives me a sweet summer feeling and reminds me of all the Leos I know and love.”
Brent Neale 18ct yellow gold Gypsy ring with orange sapphire and peridot, price on application , brentneale.com
Le Vian likes to mix jewellery and food. Home of chocolate diamonds, the American jewellery brand has gone on to create many other tasty trademarked pairings, such as raspberry rhodolite and blueberry tanzanite. It is also well-known for its jewellery trend forecasts, and this year, one of the themes the jeweller has selected as big in 2020 is ‘nature greens’. “Peridot presents an unmistakably unique hue of green in coloured gems,” says Le Vian chief executive Eddie Le Vian, whose family were once entrusted to guard the Crown Jewels. Of course at Le Vian, it’s not just peridot, it’s apple peridot.
Le Vian 18ct yellow gold ring set with chocolate diamonds, white diamonds and apple peridot, price on application, levian.com
“Peridot to me is a synonym of Tuscany and the colour of olive oil,” says award-winning Italian jewellery designer Rossella Ugolini. “The peridot green matches with amethyst and yellow topaz; it brings to life every chromatic composition.” Showing off some of that chromatic charisma, these gold earrings use gems to create an asymmetric charm by setting an amethyst on one side and a peridot on the other. Bellissima.
Rossella Ugolini gold earrings set with peridot and amethyst, €900, rossellaugolini.com
“Peridot is your vitamin D gemstone for releasing unnecessary emotional baggage,” promises Carolin Rosa, the designer behind jewellery brand Carolin Stone and architect of this silver and peridot ring. If anyone would know about this stuff, it’s Rosa. The former interior designer’s brand centres on promoting the healing power of gemstones. “Peridot helps you to have more power to focus on positive thoughts and experiences,” she continues. “It increases your vibrations while it reduces your stress level and anger. You are able to feel free from emotions that pushed you down and to feel less stressed.” And you thought this was just a ring.
Carolin Stone silver and peridot Charming Imaginative ring, £100, carolinstone.com
“I love the bright lime-green colour of peridot,” says Harwell Godfrey, a jewellery designer based in San Francisco who creates jewels designed to promote healing energy. “When paired with super-saturated turquoise it creates a really happy palette.” This gold Evil Eye pendant is the perfect example of this uplifting combo, with a round peridot set at the centre of a pattern of inlaid triangular cuts of turquoise and a smattering of diamonds for good measure.
Harwell Godfrey 18ct gold, turquoise inlay, diamond and peridot Evil Eye necklace, $3,100, harwellgodfrey.com
“I don’t usually like yellow-greens, I am more of a blue-green girl,” admits Jen Rush, a New Yorker and founder of Rush Jewelry Design. “But recently I got some insanely gorgeous peridot from Afghanistan and it absolutely won me over. High-quality peridot, which is clean and intensely saturated, is a big bang for your buck.” Being a blue-green girl at heart, Rush couldn’t resist the temptation to plant the peridot right smack in the middle of a large, deep-blue lapis lazuli and create her favourite colour combo in this chunky gold Draper cuff.
Rush Jewelry Design 18ct gold Draper cuff with an Afghan peridot set within lapis lazuli, $9,400, rushjewelrydesign.com
“Peridot was one of the first gemstones that I worked with, and as I moved from silver to golds, I fell in love with the synergy of peridot and rose gold,” says Andrew Geoghegan, a British jewellery designer known for his sensual silhouettes in engagement and cocktail rings. This particular rose gold design sets a peridot at the heart of his Satellite open ring, orbited by diamonds. “Sometimes [peridot] is lost amongst the stronger greens of emerald and tsavorite,” says Geoghegan, “But when the colour is just the right strength and the cutting is exquisite, then it is a beautiful gem in its own right – especially when set against the warmth of rose gold.”
Andrew Geoghegan 18ct rose gold Satellite open ring set with peridot and diamonds, £4,795, andrewgeoghegan.com
“Peridot, the birthstone for August and – as legend has it – Cleopatra’s favourite gemstone can be associated with protection, positive power, healing and good heath,” says Philip Ainsworth, a fifth-generation jeweller and current custodian of Ainsworth Jewellers in Blackburn. “It has, over the last few years, gained in popularity amongst our customers and we find we are now getting asked more frequently for it, to the extent that has now become a regular gemstone in our window displays.” One of the designs tempting shoppers through the door with peridot’s positive power are these gold, peridot and diamond cluster earrings. We think Cleopatra would approve.
Ainsworth Jewellers 18ct gold, peridot and diamond cluster earrings, £595, ainsworthjewellers.com
“I have worked with peridot since it was an unknown stone, because it offered a very distinct citric tone to the green spectrum,” says British designer Theo Fennell, whose jewels have long been a draw for the rich and the famous. “It has an electric quality that gives it a lightness of touch that emeralds and tourmalines don’t have.” These Chrysanthemum earrings capture the lightness Fennell mentions, with specially faceted briolette peridot drops set in a white gold floral design with plenty of diamonds. “I have used peridots from all over the world including, strangely, Norway and they each have their own character,” continues Fennell. “I wanted these earrings to be fairly dressy and certainly have some pizzaz, but also light enough, in every sense of the word, to be really wearable. Peridot is the perfect stone for this. It has a wonderfully individual colour but doesn’t take itself too seriously.”
Theo Fennell 18ct white gold and diamond Chrysanthemum earrings with 15.72cts of peridot, £27,700, theofennell.com
“I love working with peridots as I am not only able to easily get them cut in different shapes and styles, but also because of the rich green colour they come in,” says Alina Abegg, a jewellery designer based in Berlin who is known for her playful jewels that celebrate gemstones. “For my Apple Pfefferminz ring, I asked my stone cutter to carve peridot in the exact same shape as actual PEZ candy. The result is a real sweet treat.” Another creation from the designer’s Sugar High collection that uses peridot is this 14ct rose gold Licorice choker with a pendant of peridot that has been hand carved to look like a roll of liquorice, complete with an extra sprinkling of diamonds.
Alina Abegg 14ct rose gold Licorice choker with hand-carved peridot and diamond pendant, $19,820, alinaabegg.com
“Peridot is gorgeous ancient stone that has been used as a protector for over 4,000 years,” says Sheherazade Goldsmith, whose jewellery brand Loquet offers a modern take on the locket with gold and sapphire crystal designs that can be filled with charms and loose gemstones. “A favourite of Cleopatra, its olive green colour is a perfect reflection of summer months. As a birthstone for those born in August, it helps clear old life patterns to encourage new experiences as well as bringing an abundance of health and joy.”
Loquet loose peridot charm, £50 (locket and additional charms sold separately), loquetlondon.com
“Peridot is a unique green gemstone,” says Tarang Arora, chief executive of Indian jewellery brand Amrapali, which has a store in London’s Chelsea. “It is the luscious green colour of the stone which attracts us the most to use it, [as] it reminds you of the beauty and totality of the nature.” The unusual placing of peridot in this 18ct yellow gold ring certainly remind us of botanical formations. “In India, peridot is known as ghritmani and is believed to boost your decision making by alleviating negative feelings from the mind,” he continues. “It is believed to be a psychological healer, opening the heart to joy and love.”
Amrapali 18ct gold and peridot ring, £3,740, amrapalijewels.com
“Peridot is a very pure variety of the mineral olivine,” says Catherine Sackmann, the woman in charge of gemstone jewellery at Swiss jeweller Bucherer Fine Jewellery. “The name comes from the Greek word peridona, which means abundance. The Romans elegantly named this gemstone [the] emerald of the evening.” Vibrant greens are on trend, according to Sackmann. This was one of the reasons she selected peridot to create a flash of colour in this cocktail ring from its Ladybird high jewellery collection, which launched this summer. As well as its “joie de vivre” and “positiveness and light”.
Bucherer Fine Jewellery 18ct white gold, black diamond, pink sapphire and peridot Ladybird ring, price on application, bucherer.com
“Peridot, which is also called Stone of the Sun by the Egyptians, is known for its yellow and golden reflection,” says jewellery designer Nadine Aysoy, adding that it is one of her favourite gemstones. She has used the gem in one of her most standout designs – the Tsarina spring Flake earrings, which can transform to be worn as studs or drops. “I played with the golden reflections in the peridot, enhanced by the diamonds and the yellow gold to create a very bright and warm look,” continues Aysoy. “I was once stopped a few years ago at an event in London by a gentleman who commented on the amazing colour of the earrings. They are magical. It is not surprising that it was Cleopatra’s favourite stone.”
Nadine Aysoy 18ct gold, diamond and peridot Tsarina Spring Flake earrings, $15,320, nadineaysoy.com
“Peridots mean a lot of things to a lot of people, not just me,” says Patile Gemayel, design director at Suzanne Kalan, the Californian fine jewellery brand she runs with her mother Suzanne Kalandjian. “The stone draws upon many different positive meanings, such as compassion, peace and good health, and these are things we all seem to strive for in life regardless of culture, background and taste. I continuously receive requests for peridot and I believe it’s because of the positivity that is connected with them. It’s most certainly the reason I like to work with them – that, and green’s my favourite colour.”
Suzanne Kalan 14ct gold, diamond and peridot Santorini ring, $880, suzannekalan.com
“This bold peridot ring is a part of our Ravello collection, which seeks to reinvent the cocktail ring with striking gemstones of superior colour,” says Niveet Nagpal, president and head designer at coloured gem specialist Omi Privé. “The brushed yellow gold finish of this ring complements the brilliant yellowish green tones of this nearly 12ct peridot.” If you can drag your eyes away from the monumental peridot, in its diamond halo, you’ll find another gemmological treat hidden on the underside of the ring’s crown – a pair of round pink sapphires to give that summery watermelon clash.
Omi Privé 18ct brushed gold, diamond, pink sapphire and peridot Ravello ring, price on application, omiprive.com
“Peridot is one of my favourite stones, and such a pretty shade of green,” says Kiki McDonough, whose store just off London’s Sloane Square is a favourite of the Duchess of Cambridge. “It is surprisingly easy to wear, and it goes with everything. It has replaced jade in some people’s minds, and has become the most popular stone for anyone who likes to wear green.” McDonough points out that this rise in popularity is making peridot harder to find these days, but luckily she has a stash for fans of the apple-green gem, including these Heart earrings, which she describes as “a love letter to peridot”.
Kiki McDonough 18ct yellow gold, diamond and peridot Heart earrings, £5,500, kiki.co.uk
“I use peridot in my collections because I think it’s the prettiest green-colour semi-precious stone,” says Italian jewellery designer Bea Bongiasca, who studied at Central Saint Martins in London. “It reminds me of nature and the colours of the vines that my You’re So Vine jewellery collection is inspired from.” This rose gold ring from the collection creates a bold look with 2.24cts of marquise-cut peridot tipping the vines, one of which has been covered in bright-yellow enamel. Rock crystal, diamonds and tavorites bring yet more sparkle to this contemporary conversation starter.
Bea Bongiasca 9ct rose gold, yellow enamel, peridot, rock crystal, tsavorite and diamond You’re So Vine ring, €2,500, beabongiasca.com
“Peridot reminds me of the vast pale green olive trees found in the Mediterranean, where I spent my summer holidays,” says Eda Elbirlik, the designer behind London-based jewellery brand Maviada. “The green peridot is a beautiful green colour ranging from pale green to a golden green. It is luxurious and not overwhelming and always adds a bit of warmth to a piece, whether used on its own or with other colours. It is perfect for everyday lifestyle jewellery.” Perfect case in point is this pair of Maviada Cavallo Cascade Midi earrings that combine freshwater baroque pink pearls with yellow gold and peridot cabochons.
Maviada 18ct gold, pearl and peridot Cavallo Cascade Midi earrings, £1,295, maviada.co.uk
“Peridot definitely plays well with others,” says Tiina Smith, a Boston-based dealer who specialises in rare vintage signed jewels, such as these Fred of Paris peridot, citrine and amethyst cluster earrings from the 1950s. “Its happy green colour complements an array of other stones, as seen in these vintage Fred of Paris earrings. Known for their bold and brightly coloured jewellery, Fred of Paris playfully positions citrines, amethysts, diamonds and peridots to maximum effect. The stones are loosely connected, which gives lovely movement to the earrings when worn.”
Fred of Paris 18ct gold, amethyst, peridot, citrine and diamond earrings at Tiina Smith, price on application, tiinasmithjewelry.com
“Peridot is a joy to work with as it has such a unique, green hue that is so beautiful on its own, in addition to pairing stunningly well when layered with the other gemstone necklaces in the collection,” says George Root, founder of Milamore, a jewellery brand designed in New York but crafted in Japan. Root is referring to his Birthstones collection of necklaces that place a single emerald-cut gemstone within a chunky rectangular gold setting on a long chain dotted with bezel-set diamonds. For those born in August, Milamore offers a 0.26ct peridot that is promises will “ease all your worries and wrap you in security”.
Milamore 18ct yellow gold, peridot and diamond Birthstones necklace, $1,850, milamorejewelry.com
“The appeal of gemstones lies mainly in their beauty, with most people seeking brilliance, clearness, and richness of colour, but to me, all gemstones are precious, in the sense that they provide meaning and value to the wearer,” says Annoushka Ducas, founder of British luxury jewellery brand Annoushka. “Natural gemstones have a totally individual character that gives them their personality and this is absolutely the case with this pair of custom-cut peridots.” The gems have been looped by reverse-set diamonds in blackened gold settings to create charms that can be added to Annoushka’s Dusty Diamonds rose gold and diamond hoops. “As a designer, I exclusively use solid gold, celebrating the wholeness of the material and crafting jewellery which has the capacity to endure and be passed on to future generations,” continues Ducas. “Typically, I favour 18ct yellow gold, but in this design the subtleness of the peridot felt enhanced when combined with the peachy 18ct rose gold. As with all my designs, versatility is integral, so the wearer can slip the peridot drop on and off the diamond hoop and wear just one or mix and match with another drop design.”
Annoushka 18ct rose gold diamond and peridot Dusty Diamonds drops and 18ct rose gold and diamond Dusty Diamonds hoops, £1,200 and £395 (sold separately), annoushka.com
“Sublime lime peridot adds a zing to any jewellery box,” says Tayma Page, a British jeweller whose brand Tayma Fine Jewellery is based in Hong Kong. “Wear peridot as a foil to your little black dress and red nails, or pair it with a dreamy summer maxi, as a sure-fire conversation starter.” And how better to start that conversation that with a mention of how some peridot came to this planet via meteorites. “When you tell people that your peridot may have arrived from outer space, they will be amazed,” continues the gem expert, who gave a talk on Paraiba tourmaline at The Jewellery Cut Live in February 2020. “I love designing with peridot, especially peridot nuggets, and it’s always fun to look for those distinctive lily pad inclusions. Over the years, we have had some fabulous Gem of the Sun peridots from Myanmar, which we design in the Dim Sum collection.” This gold, diamond and peridot ring is a tasty example from that very collection.
Tayma Fine Jewellery 18ct yellow gold, diamond and peridot Dim Sum ring, HK$48,000, taymafinejewellery.com
“I love working with peridot because of the vibrant colours,” says Roseanna Croft, a jewellery designer based in The Goldsmiths’ Centre in London. “For me, peridot’s stunning green hue is suited to the month of August, when we’re fully making the most out of summer. Beyond it being easy on the eye, I love the balancing and health properties it has, such as calming the wearer.” This gold, diamond and pear-shaped peridot ring is the result of an upcycling project. Croft took a necklace that a client never wore and transformed it into this pinky ring, which, she reports, now rarely leaves her finger.
Roseanna Croft gold, diamond and peridot ring, bespoke commissions vary in pricing with a free initial consultation, roseannacroftjewellery.com
“La Gioia di Pomellato truly expresses who we are – our deepest identity – and Pomellato is not an elitist jeweller,” says Sabina Belli, chief executive of Pomellato. “This collection reflects the Italian art of living, where one does not make a distinction between everyday jewellery and ceremonial jewellery, between the jewels that one wears and those that one leaves in the vault. In Italy, beauty is not to be feared, it is to be revered.” Like other semi-precious gemstones, peridot has been enjoying some haute joaillerie attention, as luxury brands re-evaluate what is considered precious, spurred on by the vogue for colourful jewels. In La Gioia di Pomellato – the Italian jeweller’s fist high jewellery collection, released this summer – peridot plays a starring role in a number of designs, including this gold, peridot and tsavorite Nudo Collier Cascade. Inspired by the brand’s Nudo collection, the necklace features ‘naked’ gems that vibrate with the slightest movement. A double-sided cut reinforces the density of the peridot stones and gives them a fluidity – almost “as if they were rolled onto the skin like pebbles eroded by the sea”.
Pomellato 18ct gold, peridot and tsavorite Nudo Collier Cascade necklace, price on application, pomellato.com
Posted by: Barbara T
Peridot is my favourite gemstone! 💚
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Posted by: Sandy
Number 5 please (wishful thinking smile)
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