All the details you need to know about this season’s show, plus a guide to the designers you can expect to meet thereJanuary 16, 2020 By Rachael Taylor & Sarah Stockley
The Jewellery Cut Live is back for another season during London Fashion Week in February 2020. As London’s premier jewellery event continues to get bigger and better, we’ve got a brand new line up of designers and also a new venue.
As always, this modern and inclusive London jewellery show – which is free to visit – is open to all. Over two days, there will be a mix of talks, designer meet ups, shopping events and all things jewellery. Read on for all the information you need to visit and get the lowdown on the designers you can expect to see at The Jewellery Cut Live this season.
When is The Jewellery Cut Live on?
This season, the show will take place on February 16th & 17th, 2020. The show is open all day Sunday (16th), from 10am to 6pm, for those who prefer to visit on a weekend. We’ll be open again at 10am on the Monday (17th), right through until 9pm for those who can’t make it along during working hours.
Where is The Jewellery Cut Live?
This season, due to a growing number of jewellers taking part, we have moved the show to the historic Royal Institution on Albermarle Street in London’s Mayfair. For those travelling by tube, the venue is a five-minute walk from Green Park station.
How much are tickets for The Jewellery Cut Live?
To ensure our show can be visited by all, general entry to The Jewellery Cut Live is free if tickets are booked in advance. Tickets can still be bought on the door, but will cost £20. Should you wish to upgrade your jewellery experience, there is the option of a VIP ticket (£15 early bird price), which includes an exclusive goody bag and a glass of fizz. For the real jewellery enthusiasts, we’ve also introduced a AAA Pass (£80 early bird price) this season that gives you all the benefits of the VIP ticket plus free tea and coffee and access to all the ticketed talks during The Jewellery Cut Live and the otherwise invite-only VIP party on the Sunday night.
Where can I get tickets?
To book your tickets in advance, head to Eventbrite.
What talks are on at The Jewellery Cut Live?
We have now started to release tickets for our diverse range of talks. You can find details of all these talks on our calendar page. More talks will be announced over the coming weeks. Keep an eye on the website or sign up to our newsletter to be the first to know about new releases.
Which designers are taking part in The Jewellery Cut Live?
We’re glad you asked. Read on for a full listing of the jewellery brands taking part in this season’s show. We’ll continue to update this list as more jewellers sign up, so do check back just before your visit if you want to make a plan of which jewellers to see or book a one-to-one appointments (this should be done directly with any jewellery brand).
The Jewellery Cut Live February 2020: Meet the designers
After graduating from Goldsmiths, University of London, Akansha Sethi started her jewellery brand AS by Akansha Sethi. Seeking inspiration from the places she has travelled to and by studying art movements, it has shaped her understanding of design. This has meticulously been translated into her timeless pieces of jewellery. Her design philosophy is to gain rich experiences from places around the world and transform her memories into wearable art forms. The intricacy of each piece is also reflected in the multifaceted nature of the design. This allows each one to be fragmented or unified and to be worn in several ways, creating a convertible line of jewellery. It showcases a level of interactivity, allowing the user to modify the jewellery to suit their style. Sethi’s fascination with vibrant colours has been reflected in her jewellery, through the use of semi-precious and exotic stones, with pure gold and silver. Her jewellery is not just an adornment but a piece of art, which gives immense joy to the wearer. It complements and connects with the individuality of the person wearing it, enabling them to fall in love with the ethos of the design.
Alexandra Jacoumis’ jewellery seeks to unite the intricate designs and softness of textiles with the illuminating quality of gold and precious stones. Being of Greek origin, she was always inspired by the traditional and ancient crafts. Her journey in the world of jewellery making started when she acquired a degree in Jewellery Design & Practice at Sir John Cass Department of Art, Media & Design in London. Following her studies, Jacoumis worked for ethical jeweller Pippa Small, during which time she was able to perfect her craft and find her own voice. True inspiration came after several months spent travelling around India and Greece. Her proximity to rich textiles, textures, colours and stories moved her to create a unique collection. Alexandra Jacoumis jewellery is made by embroidering detailed forms, which are then transformed into solid 18ct gold, retaining the exact intricate detail of the thread. Afterwards, precious and semi-precious stones, such as black diamonds and sapphires, are added. Delicate and tactile, these pieces are organic. They are reminiscent of the centuries-old technique of hand-sewing and yet they are modern and wearable.
“Everyone looks beautiful with a smile,” says Anuj Shamas of Aria Designs. “A jewel is the final touch that can make anyone dazzle.” Aria Designs is a niche diamond jewellery company based in the heart of Belgium’s diamond quarter in Antwerp. The company started out as a diamond dealer, specialising for more than 25 years in cutting natural, conflict-free diamonds. With such a brilliant bank of knowledge and access to some of the world’s finest diamonds, the next obvious step forward was for the Belgian diamantaire to enter the world of fine jewellery. Working with a hand-picked cohort of European workshops, all Aria Designs jewellery is tailor made by experienced goldsmiths. Each piece is handled with care and produced to the highest level of detail. Within the collections produced by Aria Designs, you will find intricate bejewelled rings in an array of intriguing designs, dainty earrings and bracelets in a mix of white, pink and yellow gold. The pendants feature pretty diamonds in many different designs, including a feather, a classic cross and even a little dog – it is a dazzling selection of bespoke, handmade jewellery.
Simon Betta, founder of Astteria, began his career with a passion for coloured diamonds, and a vision to create a globally recognised brand. With its reputation for unparalleled standards of excellence, it was to England that Betta looked for craftspeople to help him bring this vision to life when the brand launched in 2006. Since then, Astteria has sought to employ the most skilled jewellery designers and master craftsmen in England. A joint venture with Eliayhu Bashari Diamonds ensures that as well as quality designs, Astteria has access to some of the world’s most exclusive diamonds. The beauty and uncompromising quality of every piece of jewellery in the collection have come to define luxury and elegance with artisans spending countless hours designing and handcrafting each piece. World-leading craftsmen specialising in sculptural goldsmithing, gem setting, micro paves setting and hand engraving using the highest level of perfection to highlight the beauty of every Astteria masterpiece into a timeless work of art. This family business, now led by Betta’s sons Aviad and Ofir, continues to manufacture the most beautiful and rarest diamonds, with stockists all around the world.
Established in 2017, London-based Baroque Rocks specialises in vintage and contemporary pieces of jewellery. All of its jewels are hand-picked by founder Emma de Sybel, who has a discerning eye for arresting singularity. The name Baroque Rocks pays homage not just to the historical period of unabashed exuberance and grandeur that carried the same name, but also to the baroque pearl, whose irregular form defies common conception. The ‘Rocks’ refers to the gemstones, of course, yet the word carries so much more. Allusions to drama, music and exaggerated artistic style, all circling back to the non-conformity and individuality of every magnificent jewel in the Baroque Rocks collections. The company prides itself on the excitement of every notable event you could think of – birthdays, anniversaries, christenings, Christmas, Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day. The team at Baroque Rocks will help you choose the perfect jewel for the occasion and always relish the challenge of helping you find that ideal, unusual piece to treasure.
Jewellery designer Charlotte Cornelius cut her teeth in the world of jewellery at a respected county jeweller following her studies. From there, she worked as a jewellery sales rep, travelling the country with what she claims was one of the very first car phones, before setting up her own business. You will now find her – and her creative bespoke jewels – at her own store in Southsea, which has a custom-built workshop on site. Cornelius is passionate about using materials from responsible sources, and all of her jewels are made in England. With that ethical ethos at the forefront, all its diamonds are bought from UK dealers who are part of the Kimberley Process, which means they only source conflict-free stones. Cornelius also strives to work with ethically mined coloured gems and has introduced eco and recycled silver and gold at Charlotte Cornelius. The company also sponsors a micro-finance charity called Five Talents, which gives small loans, mainly to women, in developing countries so that they can set up their own businesses.
Jewellery designer Coline Assade’s motto is: “If you’re a circle, don’t try to be a square.” In her East London studio, Assade tells stories through handmade pieces that are playful and unconventional; traditional yet contemporary. They are made, as she likes to say, with love, perfectionism, and too much coffee. Assade, who has French and Egyptian roots, graduated from London’s famous design school Central St Martins. She is also an alumnus of the Sarabande Foundation, a charity set up by the late fashion designer Lee Alexander McQueen to support creative talents. Assade’s quirky jewellery designs include the Forest Spirits collection, with the imaginary creatures taking the form of masks. These playful, sculpture-like compositions start off as wax hand carvings and real-life impressions of items picked up by Assade during her walks through London. Another key collection is Nature in Details, which offers up precious reimaginings of natural details, such as twigs and leaves.
Currently living and working in London, Cristina Cipolli is an Italian architect who studied in the beautiful city of Florence. Her passion for jewellery came from her grandmother, who collected unique jewels and gems from around the world. Wanting to gain a deeper understanding of jewellery, and the techniques involved in its creation, Cipolli attended courses at Central Saint Martins in London. Cristina Cipolli jewellery blends the magic of architecture with the world of jewellery; all the while incorporating diverse influences and inspirations, including art, nature, tribal traditions and the adornments of ancient civilisations. These disparate influences are brought together in a design style that is both contemporary and minimal, and which innovatively uses parametric patterns. Cipolli likes to use 3D printing as a construction technique. By fusing technology and tradition, her intention is to blend the past and the future into a distinct version of the present. Her jewels are for confident women who want to look feminine, sexy, sophisticated and original at any occasion.
British designer Deborah Blyth’s signature design aesthetic celebrates the beauty of nature’s imperfections, exploring organic, tactile forms inspired by the natural world. Her passion for swimming and the restorative power of water began as a child living by the sea. Swimming has long been her stress reliever; worries dissolve, spirits lift and her best ideas are born when she’s pushing through the chilly, silken water. Blyth began designing jewellery in 2004, whilst living in Italy, where she was inspired by her beautiful surroundings. Each piece of Deborah Blyth jewellery has a personality of its own, handcrafted in the brand’s London studio through the process of lost-wax casting. Many pieces are embellished with semi-precious stones and striking pearls for everyday luxury that can be worn from day to night. All Deborah Blyth jewels are available in sterling silver or 24ct gold vermeil, and often incorporate beautifully lustrous baroque pearls into many the designs, creating a wonderful mix of textures and styles.
Julien Riad Sahyoun
Growing up In Morocco, award-winning fine jewellery designer, Julien Riad Sahyoun, was immersed in a rich culture of inspiring artisans, architecture and craftsmanship from a young age. Riad Sahyoun studied his craft at the renowned Gemological Institute of America in both New York and California. After honing his skills and deepening his knowledge, he made the decision to launch his own brand, Julien Riad Sahyoun, in 2016. Each jewel, crafted in 18ct gold, tells a magical story. Whether communicating the designer’s passion to foster unity amongst people or reviving lost languages through secret Babylonian scripts, his are jewels that have meaning and call for a second look. Today, Riad Sahyoun lives in London, where he has a showroom in the South Kensington neighbourhood. It is here that he continues to translate his passions and inspirations into jewels that speak to women and men with a similarly strong sense of style and individual attitude. In 2019, dressed in his signature all-black tailoring and fedora hat, Riad Sahyoun accepted the award for Young Jewellery Designer of the Year at the UK Jewellery Awards.
Graduate of the Gemological Institute of America, gemmologist and jewellery designer Laurence Vandenborre conveys her passion and love for precious gemstones in each of her designs. Her collections are full of emotions, memories, passion and love. Vandenborre loves the idea that each woman can buy her own jewellery and that pieces will be passed from generation to generation. Her collections are modern but timeless, and, believing that less is more, the designs are elegant and perfect for everyday wear. Throughout different capsule collections, Vandenborre conveys her perception of colours, shapes and textures. Her attraction to diamonds, sapphires, tourmalines and opals remains as strong as ever, and Vandenborre wants to put the spotlight on them by making them accessible to all and aiming to offer quality jewellery that meets different budgets. The essential for her is to know her product perfectly, including its origin and manufacturing process. Therefore, all Laurence Vandenborre jewellery set with diamonds can be, upon request, be accompanied with a grading report issued by a renowned lab.
The Le Ster jewellery brand name is a play on words. The suffix ‘ster’ means to possess a quality of – as in youngster – but in the case of Le Ster jewellery, it is also a play on founder Aishleen Lester’s surname. As a child, she had an active imagination and was a magpie for colour and stories; being drawn to the power of objects and the stories they can tell is a theme that has permeated her life. As she says, whether real or imagined, we assign meanings to objects. The Egyptians believed the gemstone lapis lazuli had almost godly importance because of its dark-blue colour and gold pyrite flecks, and that it captured the night skies and stars and became an image of the heavens. Lester believes that you are what you wear and the narratives you surround yourself with become the voice to your future. Le Ster jewellery is luxurious and modern and aims to give wearers a confidence that lasts longer than lipstick. In 2018, Lester won Designer to Watch at International Jewellery London, an accolade she has followed up this year by being selected as the winner of The Jewellery Cut Live bursary prize.
“Victorian nice meets present-day naughty” is how Colette Marie Neyrey, founder and designer of Maison Coco, describes her latest jewellery collection Secret Sociéte. Neyrey, who was born in New Orleans and now lives in California, started her career in retail, and was president of upscale New York retailer Billy Martin’s before segueing into a later role as executive style director for American luxury jeweller David Yurman. Neyrey worked at the iconic fine jewellery brand for 17 years, during which time she styled several advertising campaigns for David Yurman starring the likes of Kate Moss, Giselle Bundchen and Amber Valetta, and worked directly with the late Peter Lindbergh. Last year, Neyrey made the leap to launch her own designs under Maison Coco, and was instantly picked up by Dover Street Market. Maison Coco reimagines beautiful objects from the past by, using components broken down from antique or vintage jewellery to make modern designs that offer a private dialogue for a modern society. With most of the pieces hiding rebellious and naughty slogans, Maison Coco jewellelry “tells it like it is”, and due to the nature of its creation, each piece is one of a kind.
Manpriya Bath launched her Mon-Pri jewellery boutique in Delhi in 1993, inspired by the glamour and glory of vintage Indian jewellery and its emphasis on rare stones, exquisite craftsmanship and aristocratic allure. The shop specialised in bespoke commissions and unique pieces designed by Bath. Her ability to remix classic Indian styles with a modern twist soon made her a sought-after designer for style-conscious trendsetters. Fans included the late Princess Diana, Bollywood royalty and savvy local socialites who wanted to break free from the traditional Indian way of wearing jewellery. Now based in the UK, Bath has launched a new jewellery brand, Manpriya B, retaining a key place in the world of fine jewellery design. The collections, which focus on coloured gemstones and diamond slices, reflect the brand’s belief that even the most luxurious pieces should be easy to wear, flexible and fun.
Mocielli jewellery is inspired by feminine archetypes ingrained deep in our beings and strives to be a precious reminder of the virtues and strengths we carry within. The human touch of traditional craftsmen, focus on the ornamentation and finer details is a crucial element to Mocielli designs. Love for gemstones, and also for their perfect imperfections, is supported by gemological knowledge and plays an essential part in the story of the brand. The aim is to draw from the strength of the traditions of the past to create contemporary jewellery that is timeless but with a modern edge. In Jungian theory, archetypes are deep enduring patterns of thought and behavior that remain powerful over long periods of time, and transcend cultures. Plato referred to archetypes as Forms, which he saw as pre-existing ideal templates or blueprints. There are a few main feminine archetypes: Queen, Maiden, Lover, Mother, Priestess, Warrioress. These archetypes are fractures of a complete woman and they stand for different varieties of female energy, each with their own unique areas of focus. Represented this way, it allows women to understand and affirm their strengths, and to cultivate missing or recessive female energies to help support personal growth.
Award-winning designer Myriam Soseilos’ first interesting commission was to turn a woman’s spine into a body chain. The client had been in an accident and wanted a piece of jewellery that looked identical to her injured spine but in miniature. She sent the MRI scans and Soseilos created a white and rose gold pendant with diamonds. The MyriamSOS brand prides itself on providing versatile jewellery that stands out from the crowd and is both multi-functional and elegant. Soseilos compares her jewellery to Chanel’s little black dress in that it has a contemporary yet timeless feel. The brand has captured the attention of international media such as British Vogue, The Telegraph, Glamour, O.K., Harpers’ Bazaar, Tatler, Marie Claire China and industry bible Retail Jeweller. Its award-winning flagship collection Transformers is the outcome of extensive design research, with transformable pieces turning into rings, bracelets or pendants with a simple click and twist. Expertly crafted, they allow much greater versatility than traditional jewellery. The jewels combine precious stones and metals with expert handcrafted construction, creating matchless items that can be personalised with gemstones, and can be engraved to order. MyriamSOS offers intelligent and flexible designs that stand out from the crowd.
Born in Antwerp, the global capital of diamonds, Nadine Aysoy was surrounded by the sparkle of gemstones since her early childhood, as her grandfather was a famous diamond dealer. When Aysoy was 14, her family moved to Switzerland, the home of banking, which inspired her to start a career in finance that would take her across the world to Zurich, New York, Los Angeles and London, where she now lives. In 2018, Aysoy decided to turn her jewellery-design hobby into a profession and launched the Nadine Aysoy jewellery brand. Her jewels, inspired by the beauty of nature, a passion for art and precious stones, are handcrafted in Antwerp. Many of the decorative elements in Nadine Aysoy jewellery are inspired by Aysoy’s keen eye for fashion and modern trends. These play an essential part in her design aesthetics but do not dominate them, making even the most original pieces timeless.
Neelu founder and creative director Neelu Kaur is a practicing attorney based in Los Angeles, who designs modern and exotic fine jewellery using conflict-free diamonds that have been ethically sourced. Each piece is set with one of Neelu’s signature deep-green emeralds, which are primarily sourced in Brazil. These emeralds signify ever-evolving growth and success. The Neelu jewellery line is a reflection of the city it was founded in, and is a representation of the cultural melting pot we live in today. The styles and symbols are intended to transcend the status quo to speak to women of all cultures and backgrounds, while also relating to each woman on an individual level. The jewels are elegant staples, promoting positive, essential energies including balance, protection and glamour; things that every woman desires. The pieces can be layered for a sophisticated, modern look and have been featured at London Fashion Week and in leading magazines such as Harper’s Bazaar and Vanity Fair.
Jewellery designer and silversmith Nessa Warner is based in Kent – the garden of England. Warner creates modern pieces of jewellery and accessories, such as tea lights and hair clips, in sterling silver. Her creations are both versatile and individual, and her designs are born from a love of adornment and the inherent beauty of our organic world. Warner’s unique style is a reflection of her lifelong interest in design, and has gained her many followers. You’ll find one-of-a-kind bijoux, such as handmade silver pendants featuring rutilated quartz and black pearls, and bold, contemporary silver cuffs. The elegant hairpins add a touch of class to any outfit, while the bespoke brooches add that extra bit of style and chime with one of the most exciting, unisex, trends in jewellery right now. To add some colour to the silver palette within which she works, Warner will sometimes use an oxidisation technique to blacken the silver of some designs, adding a brooding edge. For bespoke designs, she has also added sections of solid 18ct gold to clash brightly against the cool of her trademark silver.
Noor Shamma’s interest in understanding the complexities inherent in the everyday simplicity allows her to look beyond the obvious and see within and around. The New York designer developed a passion for jewellery and all things beautiful at a very young age. Her brand articulates a harmonious rapport between classic and contemporary, with influences from unique patterns and minimalist motifs. Each of her jewellery collections capture personal stories interwoven with art, identity and emotion, and are expertly made by skilled artisans is New York City. Members of the Ethical Metalsmiths, Noor Shamma believes in the importance of its contribution to a world that grants a better future to the environment and an improved quality of life for everyone. Committed to embracing sustainable practices, the company uses recycled, conflict-free and fair-mined metals in an effort to produce sustainable jewellery. Its suppliers are certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council, and to ensure the protection of human rights and the environment, all its diamonds are sourced from countries that are in compliance with the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme.
Nowyouseeme by Katarzyna Regel
Nowyouseeme by Katarzyna Regel is a contemporary jewellery brand founded in 2019 in London. Nowyouseeme uses only the finest materials to create beautifully designed and crafted items of jewellery that stand out for their elegance. Its signature style favours colour through jewellery pavé set with coloured gemstones such as rubies and diamonds. All Nowyouseeme jewellery is made with 18ct yellow, white or rose gold. Regel, the designer, advocates experimenting with stacking and layering, as well as daring to wear colourful pieces on a daily basis. Exquisite and elegant, all pieces are designed to complement one another. The designs are beautifully crafted and bold, with design motifs including ruby-red smudged lips and diamond hashtag stud earrings and #champagne jewellery. With matching sets available, the pieces are perfect as a single statement piece or to layer up on a night out.
Since 1854, Royal Asscher has been creating diamonds that make Queens smile. Its story is one of six generations of craft and artistry. Royal Asscher, which has remained a family-owned business throughout the generations, has been at the centre of the Dutch diamond industry and has dedicated itself to constantly inspecting and analysing diamonds to unlock the full potential of their beauty. Royal Asscher has a timeless love of diamonds and the stories that come with them. The company is responsible for cutting some of the most famous diamonds ever found, including two of the top three largest diamonds. This includes the Cullinan diamond, which at 3,106.75cts was the largest ever gem-quality rough diamond when it was found in 1905 in South Africa’s Pretoria. The family also created their own diamond cuts. Almost 100 years after the original Asscher Cut was first conceived by Royal Asscher founder and legendary diamond cutter Joseph Asscher, his great grand-nephews, Edward and Joop, revised the design, adding 16 additional facets to make it reminiscent of the Cullinan II diamond, a 66ct cushion-cut brilliant cut from the Cullinan that is set at the top of the Queen’s Sovereign’s Sceptre with Cross.
Tarra Rosenbaum, who is descended from a long line of creative DNA in the form of painters, sculptors, fashion designers and graphic designers, was born in the Netherlands to native New Yorkers. She launched her brand alongside a show of Picasso’s drawings in 2006, and sees her jewellery as equally balanced between precious handmade works of art and infinitely wearable creations. Rosenbaum designs exclusive jewellery for a discerning clientele, drawing inspiration from nature and its perennial bounty. All pieces are handcrafted, making them one-of-a-kind creations or limited editions. The collections are predominantly made in gold, sterling silver and gold vermeil, with accents of diamonds, pearls, semi-precious gems and onyx. The jewellery is versatile, both statement-making as well as functional in its construction, lending itself equally to casual and formal settings. With a background in fine art and science, Rosenbaum brings a unique sensitivity and expertise to her work. Creating jewellery has been a passion since childhood, and her love for intricate work ha continued throughout her life.
Milan-born, London-based jewellery designer Vanessa Pederzani creates unusual and effervescent fine jewellery. In keeping with her whimsical and vibrant personality, she enjoys giving shapes to whatever catches her eye. Assembling row upon sumptuous row of Indian blue sapphires, she creates the backdrop for a night sky, depicting a romantic starry moonlit evening in a dramatic neckpiece. Using different tones of diamonds, rubies and coloured sapphires, she moulds precious war helmets, corsets, bats and scorpions. There is gentleness at times, playfulness and boldness at others, but all her pieces have distinctive craftsmanship and unpredictable charm in common. Pederzani is a trained gemologist, who honed her expertise at her family business Pederzani Jewellery, which was founded in Milan in 1947. She later worked at Christie’s and Sotheby’s, before striking out on her own. Today, Pederzani sources her gemstones directly from sustainable mines in Brazil, Colombia, Thailand and India, setting them in 18ct gold, the precious metal she prefers above all others. Her passion for coloured gemstones, nature and details inspires her to create unique jewels that resemble miniature art pieces.
Vic + Jo
As a jeweller and art historian, Caterina Degiacomi has a passion for the aesthetic and an innate savoir faire. With her keen eye, she sources fine jewellery treasures from all over Europe. She then reimagines them as part of a fresh new take on history, rendering them fashionable and wearable for the current day, whilst highlighting their artistic excellence and unique materials. Vic + Jo jewellery is made using precious metals, gems and natural pearls that were once well-loved but have been hidden away in drawers for more than 100 years, gathering in dust. Degiacomi recognises their original beauty and gives them a new lease of life. Some of these jewels are just cleaned up and made ready fro a new home, while other reclaimed treasures are combined with each other or new materials to create a beautiful piece of contemporary jewellery. The result is a delightfully timeless, exquisitely edgy, jewellery collection.