Get all the details on this month’s show on October 15th & 16th, plus a guide to the designers you can expect to meet at The Royal InstitutionOctober 2, 2021 By The Jewellery Cut
The Jewellery Cut Live in association with Fuli Gemstones is back for another season this October, with a brand new line up of designers.
This season, the London jewellery show will be back at the palatial Royal Institution in London’s Mayfair with designers for you to discover, meet and shop. Our wonderful talks schedule will be back within the venue’s huge dedicated theatre, allowing for safe social distancing, with some exciting speakers including BBC Antiques Roadshow expert Joanna Hardy, Vogue jewellery editor Carol Woolton and jewellery designer to the stars Anabela Chan. Click here for a full listing of the talks.
Read on for all the information you need to visit and get the lowdown on the designers you can expect to see at The Jewellery Cut Live in association with Fuli Gemstones this season.
When is show on?
This season, the show will take place on October 15th & 16th, 2021. The show is open all day on the Friday (15th), from 10am to 5.30pm. We’ll be open again at 10am on the Saturday (16th) until 6pm.
Where is the show?
We are delighted to be back at the historic Royal Institution at 21 Albermarle Street in London’s Mayfair (W1S 4BS) for a second season. For those travelling by tube, the venue is a five-minute walk from Green Park station. Oxford Circus and Piccadilly Circus are also close by.
Can I buy jewellery there?
Yes. Our designers have a wonderful selection of jewels to buy at the event, making it the perfect moment to treat yourself or perhaps plan some early Christmas gift buying. You can also use the show to start discussions about bespoke commissions or see some of the jewels and meet the designers you’ve been following from afar online.
How will the show protect visitors against Coronavirus?
We are taking this very seriously. There will be an enhanced cleaning regiment throughout the Royal Institution, and hand sanitising stations will be made available at regular intervals. Our jewellers will also – as always – be cleansing jewels between guests. Our talks will be held in a theatre that can hold 400 people, but tickets will be limited to allow for distancing here too. We will be asking all visitors to show a Covid passport or proof of a recent negative lateral flow test. Masks will be at guests’ discretion.
Will there be a bar or café?
Absolutely. You can purchase refreshments at the show, and enjoy a coffee or a champagne in our dedicated bar area within the Fuli Gemstones lounge.
How much are tickets?
To ensure our show can be visited by all, general entry to The Jewellery Cut Live in association with Fuli Gemstones is free if tickets are booked in advance. Tickets can be bought on the door for £10. Should you wish to upgrade your jewellery experience, there is the option of a VIP ticket (from £15), which includes an exclusive goody bag and a glass of wine. For the real jewellery enthusiasts, we also offer a AAA Pass (from £100) that gives you all the benefits of the VIP ticket plus free tea and coffee on both days of the show, access to all the ticketed talks during the event and an invite to private VIP party on the Friday night (15th).
What talks are on?
We have now started to release tickets for our diverse range of talks. You can find details of all these talks on our Eventbrite profile or calendar page. Keep an eye on the website or sign up to our newsletter to be the first to know about new releases. To attend a talk, you must buy a separate ticket (from £10 per talk) or have a AAA Pass. Tickets can be bought in advance or at the door.
Where can I get tickets?
To book your tickets in advance, head to Eventbrite.
Which designers are taking part in The Jewellery Cut Live in association with Fuli Gemstones?
We’re glad you asked. Read on for a full listing of the jewellery brands taking part in this season’s show. We’ll continue to update this list as more jewellers sign up, so do check back just before your visit if you want to make a plan of which jewellers to see or book a one-to-one appointments (this should be done directly with any jewellery brand).
The Jewellery Cut Live in association with Fuli Gemstones 2021: Meet the designers
Enamoured by rummaging through her mother’s jewellery box, Alison Macleod is inspired by antiques, heirlooms and the secret stories they keep. Alison established her studio in 2003 after graduating from Edinburgh College of Art, moving around until finally settling in the village of Thornhill. Her signature style and collection, Catkin, was a pattern she had left in the back of her mind for over 10 years until the time came for her to make her own wedding ring. Beginning each piece in silver, she then solders each of the hundreds of tiny disks to create a pattern reminiscent of the Catkin flower. A mould is then made before the piece is finally cast in gold or platinum. Alison Macleod is passionate about having a hand in every design and making every jewellery piece that comes out of her studio. Her collections aim to evoke the emotional attachments we make to our inherited jewels, and the mysteries they elicit in people. Alison will be launching a brand new collection of Fairtrade gold rings, earrings and necklaces combining the Catkin style with clusters of diamonds and soft, natural tones.
Established in 2017, London-based Baroque Rocks specialises in vintage and contemporary pieces of jewellery. All of its jewels are hand-picked by founder Emma de Sybel, who has a discerning eye for arresting singularity. The name Baroque Rocks pays homage not just to the historical period of unabashed exuberance and grandeur that carried the same name, but also to the baroque pearl, whose irregular form defies common conception. The ‘Rocks’ refers to the gemstones, of course, yet the word carries so much more. Allusions to drama, music and exaggerated artistic style, all circling back to the non-conformity and individuality of every magnificent jewel in the Baroque Rocks collections. The team at Baroque Rocks will help you choose the perfect jewel for the occasion and always relish the challenge of helping you find that ideal, unusual piece to treasure.
Clio Saskia’s designs celebrate the weird and wonderful parts of nature. Drawing inspiration from unusual creatures found in the depths of the ocean to the canopies of the jungle, her ‘Wild Things’ collection playfully explores our relationship with the natural world. In all of her designs, she imagines how each animal would sit on the body, and how they will come to life when animated on the wearer. Her ethics sit in harmony with the planet, using 100% recycled materials to make her jewels and recyclable packaging to send them in. All of her gemstones are ethically sourced, many being from her own Sapphire mine she worked in Australia. Using the ancient art of lost wax carving to craft her pieces allows her to create her intricate animal designs on a mass scale. Clio’s jewellery is crafted to be treasured and loved, designed to be rich in character, believing that jewellery should become a reflection of our identities.
British designer Deborah Blyth’s signature design aesthetic celebrates the beauty of nature’s imperfections, exploring organic, tactile forms inspired by the natural world. Her passion for swimming and the restorative power of water began as a child living by the sea. Swimming has long been her stress reliever; worries dissolve, spirits lift and her best ideas are born when she’s pushing through the chilly, silken water. Blyth began designing jewellery in 2004, whilst living in Italy, where she was inspired by her beautiful surroundings. Each piece of Deborah Blyth jewellery has a personality of its own, handcrafted in the brand’s London studio through the process of lost-wax casting. Many pieces are embellished with semi-precious stones and striking pearls for everyday luxury that can be worn from day to night. All Deborah Blyth jewels are available in sterling silver or 24ct gold vermeil, and often incorporate beautifully lustrous baroque pearls into many the designs, creating a wonderful mix of textures and styles.
Leonid Dementiev creates unique and intricate pieces, carefully handcrafted using techniques passed down to him from generation to generation. Finding inspiration in his lineage, Leonid’s great grandfather was a highly celebrated Blacksmith and Silversmith, hailing from the southern region of the Don River in Russia. Sharing his great grandfather’s passion and work, he still incorporates the metal wire techniques used by his ancestor in his designs, combining them with his goldsmithing expertise. Having studied at Central St Martins, Leonid learnt to embed his influences into his designs, creating collections using gold, platinum, pearls and rare gemstones. Through spending time exploring the techniques of using metals, Leonid creates his pieces by melting metal down and forming it into one long wire, which he bends and curves into complex shapes. As he crafts every piece by hand, each piece has its own unique idiosyncrasies, with no two pieces ever being quite the same.
Drutis Jewellery is a mother and daughter duo, and the fine jewellery brand seeks its inspiration from family values, treasures, heirlooms and pieces with hidden meaning. It came into the world of design from a love for fine jewellery, rather than a profession. Drutis Jewellery dares to be different and breathe meaning into every creation. Its pieces are always more than what meets the eye, be that through a design quirk or an engineering feature. A key design is Drutis’s jewellery kaleidoscopes, precious pendants filled with gemstones that work just like the child’s toy. The Dream collection incorporates design and engineering features that create kinetic jewellery pieces with a lot of hidden meaning, magnetism and opportunity for personalisation. The Smart collection encompasses modern, versatile and practical jewellery that is at the same time luxurious. A clever opening mechanism allows you to switch and change up your jewellery in an instant, real modern luxury.
This year, we are delighted to introduce you to our headline sponsor Fuli Gemstones, a progressive mining company run by a dynamic, multi-cultural team. The company owns the largest-known peridot deposit in the world, called Yiqi Nanshan. Fuli’s vision is to build the most captivating gemstone company in the world, that is considerate of the planet, and inspires creativity. Fuli’s Chinese heritage and forward-thinking approach provides an ideal platform for partnerships with international designers and luxury brands. The Yiqisong Nanshan mine is located in the foothills of the tranquil Changbai Mountains. The peridot gemstone from this region is characteristically vibrant grass green, with exceptional hue and saturation that requires no treatment. Fuli Gemstones offers a consistent supply of superior gemstones, supported by active global marketing initiatives and will offer traceability on its products. The Fuli Gemstones philosophy is simple: natural innovation combined with positive change. As well as bringing some loose peridot gems to the show, Fuli Gemstones will be showcasing their recent collaborations with Annoushka and Zeemou Zeng. They will also have a specially designed Fuli Gemstones lounge area for our attendees to relax in and learn about this fascinating gemstone
Founded by Turkish-Canadian designer, Yasemin Mutlu, Hestia combines artisanal skill with designs to be worn every day. With their namesake being a tribute to Hestia, the Greek goddess of the hearth, family and architecture, their designs take inspiration from the idol. Originally working in marketing, Yasemin established Hestia after finding herself spending every free moment she had designing jewellery for her family and friends or hunting for gems in the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. Committed to creating fine, affordable jewellery that can be passed down from generation to generation, Hestia uses conflict-free diamonds and gemstones in all of their designs and ensure every material is ethically resourced. Perhaps its most recognisable pieces are their stackable, ceramic rings created with the same fire that rules the goddess of Hestia’s core.
Having been inspired by her own flamboyant family as a child, India’s jewellery is a celebration of bold colours and quality. After spending time in Registan during the 1980s with a family friend and fine jeweller, India discovered that her love of jewellery was not only a passion but her purpose. After refining her craft, India set up her first studio in 2013, honing her elegant and modern style, before returning to Yorkshire and making her home in her Harrogate shop in 2018. Fusing her influences from Eastern and Western cultures, India puts quality ahead of everything in her designs. She ensures that all materials she uses are ethically sourced, and makes every piece by hand at her studio bench. She spends time with clients, working closely with them to create ‘forever favourite’ pieces. Her collections fuse opulence with intricacy, creating delicate yet bold one-of-a-kind pieces using gold, silver and vermeil combined with vibrant and alluring gems.
The winner of this year’s The Jewellery Cut bursary, Brighton-based jeweller Jasmine Ataullah dazzled the judges with her striking South-Asian inspired collections. Jasmine is completely self-taught, acquiring impressive skills in lost wax carving and push engraving, which has become part of her signature style. Jasmine creates pieces inspired by her exploration of her heritage and identity. She celebrates her British-Pakistani roots through the medium, influenced by the intricate nature of South Asian adornment. The designer-maker uses the traditional techniques of goldsmithing producing beautifully detailed pieces, adorned with ethically sourced gems culminating in designs that simultaneously radiate modernity and celebrate the ancient. This will be Jasmine’s first time showing at The Jewellery Cut Live, and we can’t wait to pore over her pieces in person.
Kassandra Lauren Gordon
The moment Kassandra Lauren Gordon was gifted a gold locket from her mother at nine years old, her love of jewellery began. Knowing that her mother had saved for nearly a year to purchase it, Kassandra understood the locket’s preciousness. Having kept it in pristine condition for over 20 years, the locket serves as a reminder of the bond between mother and child and this type of storytelling is something she recreates in her own collections. Having studied jewellery and manufacturing design in Hatton Gardens, her pieces are designed for hard-working, professional women that tell a story and blend seamlessly with their style from day to night. She strongly believes in creating ethical and sustainable jewellery and uses organic, conceptual designs to portray the narrative of her pieces. Kassandra is also a prominent voice for the Black jeweller community; she wrote an open letter to the jewellery sector in the wake of the murder of George Floyd and the Black Lives Matter movement. This lead her to begin the KLG Fund, which raised more than £19,000, to provide immediate financial relief to emerging and established Black jewellers. She is also working with the Goldsmith’s Company to conduct the UK’s first social research projects into the experiences of black British jewellers.
Libby Rak is a jeweller from Oxfordshire whose passion for jewellery began at a young age. At the age of 14, she started a Saturday job working for an independent jeweller, Julia Beusch, who owned a shop in Woodstock near where Rak lives. It was this job that provided her with hands-on experience as well as allowing her to develop skills such as restringing pearls and repairing silver jewellery. During the six years working alongside Beusch, Rak constructed her own workbench at home where she began working on her own designs and putting together collections under her name. This allowed Rak to develop her own style and put the experience she had gained working with Beusch into practice. Rak graduated from prestigious jewellery school, The British Academy of Jewellery, before opening her own gallery in Woodstock in 2017. All Libby Rak jewellery is handmade using sterling silver, gold and semi-precious and precious gemstones. She also offers a commission and repair service.
Madhava Raghava has been an influential jeweller in India since it was first established fin 1903 by Ramanand Soni. Now into its fourth generation, the brand is headed by the dynamic Raghav Soni who brought the jeweller international recognition. They create opulent pieces inspired by the elaborate Kundan Meena jewellery of the Mughal era and the Maharajas of India. The brand not only creates jewellery reminiscent of the Maharajah’s and Maharani’s, but Madhava Raghava also has a long history of working with royalty, being private jewellers to the royals of Jaipur. They combine ancient, traditional techniques such as Kundan Jadai with contemporary manufatcuring techqniues, to create beautifully intricate and lavish collections. All of the diamonds Madhava Raghava use are conflict-free, and their metals are all responsibly sourced.
Marie Cabirou is the Founder and the creative director of Marie Mas. After studying at the prestigious École Duperré (College of Art, Design and Fashion) and IFM (French Fashion Institute) in Paris, Cabirou learned jewellery design by assisting Florence Croisier and Shourouk. In 2012, she joined Maison Christian Dior Couture with Raf Simons, where she honed her jewellery design skills. Three years later, Cabirou decided to launch her own line of fine jewellery and haute couture jewellery that she named Marie Mas, as a tribute to her maternal grandmother, Henriette Mas, who influenced her taste for femininity, beauty and creation. “Movement has been an obsession of mine since I started to design,” says Cabirou. “For me, good design is surprising, it looks alive and gives a soul to the object. Also, the ‘wow’ effect when you discover a piece of jewellery is very important. A piece is a success if you see the sparkle in the eyes of the person who discovers it. I want every woman to feel rapt with wonder for a moment.” With that in mind, Cabirou has developed and always works around the idea of jewels which come to life when they are worn. With every collection, she creates pieces that can transform and adapt themselves to the movements of the woman who wears them, magnifying her sensuality and adding excitement to every movement.
Coming from an engineering background, Nigel’s work perfectly marries together technique and creativity. Striving for technical perfection in his pieces, the starting point of his process begins with the cut and colour of the stone, so as to create jewellery that understands the potential of the gem. After spending many years creating some of the world’s most luxurious jewellery houses, and learning from influential master goldsmiths like Erwin Springbrunn, Nigel established his own studio in the West of Ireland in 2009. Every piece he makes is unique, driven by the beauty he finds in the West Ireland landscapes, the natural beauty of the gems he works with and his passion for the advancement of jewellery design. Having broken ground by being the first Irish designer at Sotheby’s Important Jewels live auction in New York last year, all eyes are on Nigel’s designs, which have been described as like wearing works of art.
Noor Shamma’s interest in understanding the complexities inherent in the everyday simplicity allows her to look beyond the obvious and see within and around. The New York designer developed a passion for jewellery and all things beautiful at a very young age. Her brand articulates a harmonious rapport between classic and contemporary, with influences from unique patterns and minimalist motifs. Each of her jewellery collections capture personal stories interwoven with art, identity and emotion, and are expertly made by skilled artisans is New York City. Members of the Ethical Metalsmiths, Noor Shamma believes in the importance of its contribution to a world that grants a better future to the environment and an improved quality of life for everyone. Committed to embracing sustainable practices, the company uses recycled, conflict-free and fair-mined metals in an effort to produce sustainable jewellery. Its suppliers are certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council, and to ensure the protection of human rights and the environment, all its diamonds are sourced from countries that are in compliance with the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme.
Pearly Hawker is a jewellery brand created and designed by Mercedes Palmer-Higgins in her hometown of Colchester. Founded on the idea that every piece should be a wearable story, her jewellery is made by hand and inspired by the realms of history, mythology, music and tales. Pearly Hawker works to create jewellery that has a life of its own, filled with symbolism and meaning. Wearable, interesting and beautiful, it is her aim to make pieces that will hold a sense of wonder and awe as they are passed down. The name Pearly Hawker originates from her wish to use her own history as inspiration for her brand. With stories of Spanish Hawker ancestors and her great grandparents being Pearly Kings & Queens, it made sense that as the next in a long line of mad creatives, she herself would be a Pearly Hawker. Every piece is originally hand carved, so all the designs are sculptures in miniature, telling stories to the world and the wearer. Taking form from inspirations such as historical events, mythological creatures and music for example, every piece takes time and gains a sense of power and presence.
Founded by Kinda Baasiri-Mouawad, Reframed Jewelry is a melting pot of Kinda’s international influences. From Lebanon to Antwerp, to Paris to LA, Kinda’s inspiration comes from all around the world, with her designs projecting a fierce sense of individuality. After meeting her diamond-dealer father-in-law, Kinda became engrossed, learning all she could about the gem, working for the family business in Antwerp and studying at the Gemological Institute of America. The brand was originally born in LA before it found its home in London, which aligned much more with her rock’n’roll sensibilities. Her collections are inspired by the jewellery from her cultural influences of Lebanon and Saudi Arabia, where gifting enormous and bold pieces are commonplace at important celebrations. She combines elegant diamonds with edgy, daring design, whilst still refining the minimalistic pieces to ensure their chicness and every day wearability. The brand’s collections are designed with bold women in mind, creating pieces that celebrate individuality, style and confidence.
Now in its sixth generation, this family business has been at the centre of the Dutch diamond industry since 1854. The family’s expertise has been passed down over the years, with each generation contributing to the legacy by embracing technological developments and furthering their commitment to creating beautiful pieces. Dedicated to creating jewellery to the highest possible standards, Royal Asscher places huge importance on ensuring that their entire supply chain holds the same values that they do. All of their rough diamonds are sourced from companies and nations compliant with the Kimberly Process, meaning their jewels are conflict-free. The business has a policy of lobbying for human, social and environmental rights and works with those who are committed to the same ethical practices. Every diamond they use is celebrated for its uniqueness and rarity, and their reputation for their expertise in diamond-cutting precedes them.
In 2016, Ruby Taglight graduated from the Glasgow School of Art with a degree in Painting and Printmaking. She created heavily embellished, figurative sculptures, which explored the relationship between function and the ornament. Her narrative pieces aimed to explore how we choose to place value and importance within an increasingly desensitised and technological world, using materials such as dried flowers and cheap embellishments in order to ask the viewer what are the factors they consider beautiful, and what the function of this beauty is. It was here she discovered a deep connection with adornment, and subsequently moved to New York to earn a Graduate Gemologist Diploma from the Gemological Institute of America. On returning to London, Taglight began to create jewellery; continuing to explore themes surrounding the role of the ornament. She draws on myths, history and religion to create pieces that tell a narrative. Each piece is unique, designed and handcrafted from start to finish by Taglight, with the intention of providing the wearer with a sense of wonder. As the piece is worn, it is her intention that the story referenced will continue to be relived in our daily lives.
The Rock Hound
Known for its colossal efforts to ensure gems and metals are responsibly sourced, The Rock Hound is a family-run business with a difference. Fascinated by her parents’ mineral collection as a child, the brand’s. founder, gemmologist and designer Susi Smither, discovered her passion for gems and precious stones whilst studying at The Gemmological Association of Great Britain. It is the intersection of her love of science, and admiration for natural beauty found in gems where Susi finds her inspiration. It was after taking transformative trips to Tanzania and Sri Lanka where Susi was confronted with the reality of unethical mining and sourcing, that she endeavoured to make it her duty to ensure her brand was fair trade, ethical and honest. The Rock Hound use raw materials to create unique and striking pieces, that make a statement. The materials it uses are reflected in the designs, using organic, free-flowing shapes and hues that naturally form the framework for their bold use of gems.
The Jewellery Cut Live in association with Fuli Gemstones will take place on October 15th & 16th, 2021, at The Royal Institution, London. Get your ticket here