Jewels

Garrard transports us to opera masquerades with colourful hardstones

Face coverings might be essential today, but Fanfare Symphony reminds us of a time when they were the reserve of high society on London’s theatre scene

February 22, 2021 By Rachael Taylor

If there is one fashion accessory that will forever be associated with our move into this new decade, it is the face mask. Covering up our faces has become a life-saving, essential element of everyday life. However, it was once a far more stylish endeavour, as the new Fanfare Symphony jewellery collection from Garrard reminds us.

In 18^th century London – just as Garrard was opening its first store in 1735 – one of the most fashionable nights out was to be found in the city’s theatre district. Here, the well-heeled of the metropolis would gather for opera masquerades at which the must-have accessory was a bejewelled fan to be fluttered mysteriously across one’s face.

Inspired by this historical sartorial flourish, and the synonymy with its own roots, Garrard created its Fanfare collection of jewels that mimicked the shape of the operatic fans in gold and gemstones in 2018. This year, the jewellery maison has returned to this collection, giving it a colourful update by using hardstones – semi-precious gemstones often used in mosaic work or gem-carving techniques such as intaglio.

Garrard 18ct gold, pink tourmaline, diamond and pink opal inlay Fanfare Symphony earrings, £17,000, available at Garrard

The new Garrard Fanfare Symphony collection sees the design team inject colour into the jewels with custom-cut hardstones including pink opal, turquoise, hematite, malachite, lapis lazuli, cachalong and white agate. The gems have been inserted into the white gold designs using a jewellery technique known as inlay, making them appear like the folds of a fan. These inlaid hardstones are coupled with complementary sparkling gems such as aquamarines, rubies, diamonds, sapphires and emeralds.

There are 40 variations in the Garrard Fanfare Symphony collection, which comprises striking fan earrings, pendants with the motif coquettishly cocked to one side, and cocktail rings that show two fans nestled together with a swan-like grace.

“The Fanfare Symphony collection celebrates the wonderful diversity of ornamental hardstones, which have such a different look and feel to traditional gemstones,” explains Garrard creative director Sara Prentice. “The array of new designs brings an exciting dimension to the collection.”